Please excuse the lack of updates. Information on new projects and other news to come.
Thank you for your patience!
Please excuse the lack of updates. Information on new projects and other news to come.
Thank you for your patience!
Good morning and Happy Friday to everyone! Here are some highlights from the 2013 Celtic Classic Bagpipe competition. The bands in the video are Class 4 bands. The bagpipe bands are rated on a scale of 1 to 5. Class 5 being the more inexperienced bands who are still trying to hone their craft and become a more tight-knit unit. Class 1 bands are the bands who are experts at their craft. Some competitions do not even have Class 1 bands as that level only has the best of the best. There appear to be more CLass 2-4 bands than any other class. Sometimes there are competitions where there is no band in a specific class.
The bands practice and perform long hours just to be able to compete against other bands at this level. Bands ranged from high school students to the most experienced pipers. Even the slightest mistake can mean the difference in finishing with a one spot difference. Carnegie Mellon University sent their well oiled machine of bagpipers and drummers down for competition. It did not matter what you competed in, the Highland Games or the Bagpipe competition, everyone gave their all just to finish one spot higher than their competition.
The video has four bands performing. I was at other events and seeing what else the Celtic Classic had to offer rather than covering every band who competed. The next update will have video highlights from the Highland Game competition and highlights from watching herding dogs do their job. If you do enjoy the videos I post, leave a comment or a message. Always nice to get feedback from those who appreciate the work I put into the videos and website.
Good afterbnoon everyone! Gina and I had a very entertaining weekend at the 2013 Celtic Classic. Thousands came out for their 25th year of providing a great festival of Celtic heritage. Gina and I were kilted for the occasion. I might add a picture on that the next time. The Celtic Classic featured babpipe competitions, the 2013 Highland Games, a Highland Dance Competition, a night of comedy, a youth fiddle competition, whickey tasting and so much more.
There were bands performing each day, tons of different foods to sample including fried haggis, and a slew of vendors providing Celtic merchandise for every age range. Both Scotland and Ireland were represented to each country’s fullest. It really was a fun time had by all. There was entertainment around every corner for every age group. From the Tartan Parade to learning to pour the perfect pint of Guinness, there was something for everyone. That is, if you were not getting pissed at the Jameson Irish Pub they had set up.
The official start of the Celtic Classic came with the Tartan Parade on Saturday. Everyone lined the parade route to get a glimpse of the pipe bands and O’Grady Quinlan Academy of Irish Dance who had over 100 dancers. Actually, one could hear them coming even before you could see them. The final band of the parade had so many members, it reminded me of the wooden soldiers in the Laurel & Hardy classic “March of the Wooden Soldiers“. The only item missing was Mickey Mouse in a blimp.
Here is the Tartan Parade in its fullest. Later in the week I will have highlights from the bagpipe competition and the Highland Games. I may have some surprises in there as well regarding other footage from the Celtic Classic. So for now, enjoy the parade!!
Good morning to everyone out there who might actually be reading this. What a busy few weeks it has been moving and getting settled in to the new homestead. It has been a good kind of busy. Just think of George and Weezie moving on up. The first few days that was what I was thinking. I even did the “George Jefferson Swagger” for Gina as that is one memorable swagger. I will have some pictures or video next week of the new place. Like I said, it has just been busy. Well, that and one other slight issue.
In the process of packing, I wanted to make sure my SD cards were in a safe place. This way, when we arrived in our new abode, I would be able to hit the ground running. I could not even touch the ground as I put those SD cards in such a safe place, I forgot where I put them. Yeah, perfect. They are in a Talenti gelato container in some storgae bin. Finding them will be my own personal home game. Can I guess which bin my SD cards are in? Tune in next week as I pull my hair out of my head checking the same containers over and over. Film at 11.
I ended up buying to SD cards from Amazon in the meantime so I have something to record with. The need was important as Gina and I will be attending the Celtic Classic in Bethlehem, Pennsylvania this weekend. The weekend will be a great reminder of our trip to Ireland and Scotland this past summer. The trip is embeded in my memory as one of the best experiences of my life. To be surrounded by the same feeling I had at Oliver St. John Gogarty‘s, the Guinness Storehouse, or even the Jameson Distillery is worth the trip to the Celtic Classic.
The Celtic Classic offers the largest Highland Games and festival in North America! In the tradition of the celebration of Celtic heritage, the Celtic Classic has endured both man and nature for over 25 years. This September 27, 28 & 29, 2013, the Celtic Classic will return to Historic Bethlehem, Pennsylvania, renewed in its purpose, to preserve and promote Celtic Culture. They continue to bring the same great athletics, piping, music and dance to thrill and entertain the masses.
The essence of tradition is the interpretation of it by the people presenting it. The volunteers who will be bringing the 2013 Celtic Classic will put their own stamp on this world class event. On Saturday morning, Gina and I have a 10 AM whickey tasting. They same kind of whiskey tasting experience we had in Edinburgh. There is also a lesson on how to pour the perfect Guinness. Another activity we eagerly learned in Dublin at the Guinness Storehouse. Being able to take part in these activites is what will make the weekend worth remembering. That along with all the pictures and cideo to be taken. Bad joke? Not really.
So when we get back I will have the updates I promised and talked about regarding my video blog, YouTube page, or whatever else one calls their video series. I thought “Dave On Demand” sounded quite snazzy. Combine that with reports from the Celtic Classic and my classes at Gotham Writers Workshop in a few weeks and you have quite a lot of topics to discuss. So much time and so little to do. Strike that, reverse it.
Moving has also helped me to relax and let my mind focus on what I need to. I can associate it with a toy I had in the late 70’s. It was an Incredible Hulk toy in a cage. You pumped him full of air and he would expand to the point where his clothes would tear off before he broke out of the cage. It was a fun toy. I remember playing with it before having my tonsils removed. My old place was sort of like that. I was cramped for space, I needed to break out and let my mind and creativity have more space to work properly.
Now that I have had a few weeks to think and get my stuff situated, it will be easier going forward to do what I set out to do. In the middle of it all I need to get my ass to a New York Giants or Jets tailgate this season. The New York Jets are 2-1 behind Geno Smith. It is painful to cheer for Gang Green, but I do it. Thank you to my father for that one.
I need to start packing for the Celtic Classic. I will be kilted and will have pictures for eveyone to see. No, I will not be going regimental. There will be Under Armour worn underneath just in case the wind decides to blow. So as I am off getting pissed, enjoy a video of my wife Gina and I learning how to pour the perfect Guinness at the Guinness Storehouse in Dublin, Ireland from this past summer.
Just an update about the website, future video blog series, moving, and other related info. For more, visit. LevysBakeryMedia.com
Good afternoon on this August Tuesday everyone. The Warrior Dash was this last weekend and it was a fun race. The race was the only thing fun about the day. It rained the entire morning and really made the course extra muddy. It was hard to run in areas that made sense to run in. Did you understand that? In other words, the expected dry areas to run on were now just sloppy and dangerous. Many people were sliding and slowing down. Some were complaining about how their time would be affected. Others did not care.
My heat began at 1 PM. My wife and I were thankful were had donated to St. Jude’s Children’s Hospital and have access to the VIP tent to stay out of the rain. That was a highlight. Able to wait it out the rain and remain dry majority of the time. Also a few private port-a-potty‘s. Even though I was prepared, I was still emptying my bladder every 15 minutes. Nerves will never go away. The same thing would happen in wrestling before going through the curtain. Go to the bathroom a few times and then it was showtime.
There was even a wait to get on a few obstacles. One obstacle in particular where one had to crawl under barbed wire had a good 5-7 minute wait just to start it. Thankfully the rain stopped right before the start of my heat. Even with that blessing from above the course was treacherous at points. I may not be the best conditioned athlete, but certain points I know I could have been running at if it was not so muddy. When I start a physical activity, I like to finish as hard as I start the event. The mud detracted from that as caution and safety took over.
I think I was the only one to finish the race with no mud on their chest, head, and face. I wear contact lenses for a race like this. I also wear swimming goggles to protect my eyes in a race like this. I received compliments on my use of swimming goggles. Some wore tutu’s, other team’s matching shirts, and others barely anything at all, I wore swimming goggles. If I could have any of these courses mud free, I would. There are many like myself who would love a course with nothing but obstacles & less distance running, without having to join the military.
The distance running in majority of these mud runs is a necessary evil. At least cut back on the mud. There is no need for it to be waist deep. I would love to see more challenging obstacles in the typical Warrior Dash without having to sign up for an Iron Warrior Dash or Urban Warrior Dash. Some of these groups offer more than one kind of run. The Spartan Race and Tough Mudder do the same as well. There is even a kids Spartan Race. I think that is a great event for kids. I plan on tackling the courses for the Spartan Race and Rugged Maniac in the future. I know I will need to work on my stamina and do the necessary cardio.
One of the best personal reasons for me to do this race is to complete a personal challenge. I have run this race two years in a row with no teammates and I savor the sense of self accomplishment in finishing a race of this kind. Where teammates are helping each other on each obstacle, I tackle them alone. The feeling of no limitations on my personal self increases the light on the person I have kept down for years.
I have always played it careful when it has come to letting my true self shine. Years of bullying bullied suppressed the person I know I can be. Fearful of others opinions without even considering my own. Not putting me before the comments that were being made of me. I am not just talking about physical bullying, but verbal as well. There were some girls in middle & high school that would also be verbal bully’s. Verbal bullying went on for me well into college. I can remember working at a company in college where my peers would make me feel small from it.
There are times certain incidents will pop into my head. I never let them take control of me or my confidence these days. I use it to be more determined to succeed. Another step in that direction is to go all out, not caring about what anyone thinks. As Nike says, to just do it. I keep preaching about leaving that proverbial comfort zone. It is time for me to take my own advice and be comfortable in my own skin. To be the opinionated, sarcastic, wise ass that everyone knows me to be. Not in a bad way though. It is just my personality and who I am.
In the movie Tombstone, Val Kilmer is Doc Holiday and Kurt Russell is Wyatt Earp. Doc Holiday passes a comment regarding Wyatt Earp’s wife. Wyatt Earp chuckles while his brother Morgan, played by Bill Paxton, took offense to the comment. Wyatt tells Morgan that Doc meant no harm by the comment, that it is just his style and he doesn’t mean anything. The same goes for me. I never mean any harm from the comments or jokes I may pass, it is just my nature and who I am. I only poke fun at the people I like. I never mean any disrespect. My sarcastic, wise ass humor has always worked with my quick wit and intelligence. It is just who I am.
I have been standing alongside the highway of life, holding my thumb out, hoping to hitch a ride with someone instead of taking the chance to drive that road myself. It is about time I did. I have had control of the wheel many times. I just never mapped out my own course. I seemed to rely on others for that. No more. Time to put myself out there and not worry about failing or criticism. I have learned from other failures in life, why should it stop me now? Everyone needs to experience the failure as much as success. If you never learn from your failures or mistakes, then you will be doomed to repeat them. I have had my fair share of mistakes and failures, believe me.
On my YouTube channel I will be starting a weekly video blog. I may decide to post more than weekly if the desire and enough topics come up that warrant it. I have a strange feeling it will on occasion. Many issues about current events, the New York Jets, my past, my future, other projects, random opinions, being bullied, and plenty of other topics that require more commas. Sometimes writing is not enough as certain emotions and body language make video a better form of self expression.
I do not want to ramble on, cramming topics that have no relation to each other into one post. Your mind would be over the place more than a Jack Russell Terrier. Which means I will have to come back more often to update everyone. Sounds good here. I enjoy saying what everyone else thinks. Making statements and passing comments that make others gasp, but know those comments are true. If you are not a fan of that, sarcasm, and comments that “straddle the line”, then you may want to read another blog. If you are one who enjoys that kind of wit and banter, then I encourage you to keep coming back to enjoy yourself while having a few laughs.
Time to get some other items done. Will be moving in a few weeks so time is spent packing and tossing out items that have been sitting in closets for over 10 years. Many bags of clothes and other items have already been donated to Goodwill. Still a ton more to go through. I will have my first vlog up next week. It will be raw with no graphics or effects, but no sense in waiting considering I have waited long enough. See you all soon, on here and on YouTube.
This Saturday will be my second time competing in the Warrior Dash at Lewis Morris Memorial Park in Morristown, NJ. Races like this appeal to me mainly for the obstacle course they put together. If majority of the race was an obstacle course without all the running, I would enjoy it even more. The Warrior Dash is 3.2 miles and about 15 obstacles over all kinds of terrain. You run through open fields, up steep hills, through small rivers, a lake, over walls, in mud, and everything else the people at Red Frog Events can throw at their warriors. A lot of fun actually.
Last year I finished the race in 47 minutes plus change. All I am looking to do on Saturday is beat my own time. It does not matter if it is by 10 seconds or five minutes. I just want to show improvement. Even when I was a wrestler I showed the same intensity. Regardless of the challenge put in front of me, I am always determined to prove I can overcome. If I can not, then I know I gave it my best.
One of my biggest pet peeves is when anyone tells me I can not do something. People will use words like “No” or “You can’t”. I answer with “Yes, I can” and “watch me”. Obstacles are always being put in front of me. Once I was diagnosed with central vision loss in 1991, many areas of enjoyment became off-limits. I was informed I could no longer wrestle in high school. Told to not exert myself in to strenuous a fashion. That sat with me for many years.
Did I listen?
After high school I wrestled professionally on the independent circuit for a while. I told no doctors or my parents. It took a picture being left out by my brother for my mother to know I was wrestling. Did I stop at that point? Nope. It didn’t even slow me down. I was proving that even though I had suffered this vision damage and told not to exert myself physically, that I was able to do it with no new damage happening.
My eye doctor at the time was amazed. My current specialist in NYC was shocked to know what I did and nothing happened further with my vision. My mother eventually said “If I can not stop you, I may as well support you”. Now THAT was a big win for me. My determination in completing what I start gives me focus. I did not have closure wrestling in high school because someone else ended it for me. I guess that is why even today I do not like others halting me from what I know is right for myself. If I know something is beyond me or too dangerous, I am intelligent enough to know when to stop. My wife tends to think otherwise. In her case, I listen.
I became aware of the Warrior Dash a few years ago. I subscribe to Men’s Health magazine and they were taking out ads in every issue. Even before Red Frog started running events in NJ last year, I knew I wanted to attempt it. Red Frog Events has been putting on the Warrior Dash longer than a majority of the other mud runs out there. I kept pushing off racing as I was not in the best shape. But as life and situations improved for my wife and myself, I knew the Warrior Dash was in my future. I worked out at L.A. Fitness last year, about 4 days a week. I put together a weight routine and ran on the elliptical every time I worked out.
I had myself in decent shape. Decent enough to get through the race without needed oxygen afterwards. I just hate doing cardio. Long distance running is not my forte. I understand stamina is needed for any physical event and sports so hence doing a necessary evil. One has to run in order to have enough stamina. One also needs to shed unwanted pounds in make cardio easier. I am at the same weight now that I was last year. I know if I lose another 10-15 pounds, the cardio will be a lot easier. Something to focus on before next year’s race. I am a nighttime snacker, sue me.
Completing last year’s race as a sole racer, no teammates, had me smiling from ear to ear for days. My elation in running a race filled with obstacles and being able to physically put myself out there for enjoyment makes me hold my head a little bit higher. I am a physical person by nature, it makes me happy. I gain confidence knowing that even with my limitations, I can still enjoy the physical activities others said I would not be able to do. If I could have played football as a kid, I would have.
A few weeks after the Warrior Dash last year I noticed a change in my right eye. I decided to make a doctor’s appointment to see what the change was. After the usual tests the doctor informed me I had some leakage on the blood vessels behind my eye. No blood or anything yet. just the start of something. They caught it in time to halt its progression and even minimize the effects. All it took was a shot to my eye. Apparently, a cancer medication has become useful for those with glaucoma in slowing it’s advancement. My mother currently gets them every few weeks.
He explained it as a small brush fire that sparks or a lightning strike. Prediction of what may happen is uncertain for someone my age with this condition. All they can do is watch it, they do not want me to limit myself in what I do in life. That was a sigh of relief. Since that point I have not had another shot. I have been back for follow-up visits with everything being fine. By this point, I started to work out harder in the gym. I knew my limits and I was determined to straddle the line in pushing that limit.
I switched health clubs from L.A. Fitness to New York Sports Clubs. NYSC offered kettlebells, TRX, UXF, and a fraction of the membership. Parking is easy to find, the equipment I want is always available, they provide towels, and the management goes out of their way to make it enjoyable. L.A. Fitness was always busy, other members were rude, plus when one has to wait to use every piece of equipment, it can be annoying. There is a story there in itself. It was a change for the better.
Over the next several months I really bulked up. My shirts we getting tighter up top. My wife has been extremely happy about it. I am in the second best shape of my life. When I was 30, I was in great shape and a little leaner too. I added more muscle this time. Plus my abs are starting to see definition for the first time in like, history. I enjoy going to the gym. It feels good. I am no gym rat or a “I lift things up and put them down” type of guy. I only want to stay in shape and enjoy myself in the process.
I knew for this years Warrior Dash I added extra strength. I have no run as much as I did to prepare last year. I used to run 4 days a week. Now I am lucky if I get to the gym for two days a week. I always run a fast mile before any work out as a warm up. The distance running is what I lack time in. I can keep a steady pace and run five and a half miles in an hour. More than enough to help me finish the race. I just hate the anticipation of all that running. Once again, it is that necessary evil.
Even as I know my vision got a little worse it did not deter me from wanting to race again. I will be doing events and activities like this until I physically can not do so. I also run the Warrior Dash for those more visually impaired than I am. For those blind and visually impaired who would like to participate in physical and challenging events. Many have other causes and purposes for running other events, this is mine.
I ran the race for the same reason last year. It was a great experience I wish other could have shared with me. This year, everyone will be able to. I will be running the race with a GoPro Hero 3 Silver Edition. This way everyone can see what the Warrior Dash is like and share in the ride. The video should be up a week or so after the race. Maybe if some people I know see how the Warrior Dash is, they might reconsider and want to race next year.
I wrote a piece last year before my first race (shar.es/kNfFB , best link I can do). I gave more detail about my wrestling background, being bullied, and more where the Warrior Dash just became one more obstacle to overcome. Every time I defeat a course like the Dash, I feel a little prouder of myself each time. I rarely ask for help, even when I know I am having troubles. I am getting better in asking for assistance in some ares. Men hate to look vulnerable or weak, it is hard to ask for help at times. The bigger men are the one;s who know when to ask & understand it will not affect their pride. I am learning the latter.
It is hard to ignore my vision issues every time I open my eyes. At least my dreams are in perfect 20/20. I have to constantly think a few moves ahead to compensate for the loss. I am sure many others who have had their setbacks have a certain method they use to overcome and lead a normal life. I hate using the word disability. Many are inflicted with one but it never slows them down. Those people run a Warrior Dash every day of their life. The daily obstacle course, filled with challenges, that are overcome everyday. For some, making it to tomorrow is the biggest victory.
Seriously though, click the link above and read the article. I can tug a few more heart-strings and give you more to laugh at by clicking the link above. Go ahead. This piece is not going anywhere. It will be here for you to finish when you are done reading it. Fin. Keep reading here. At least share it. I had to try a little shameless self plug. It provides insight as to why a race like this is important to me. The article provides a better understanding of who I am & why it is important to never give up on what truly matters in life.
Next year I will not just be running in the Warrior Dash,m but the Tough Mudder as well. I need to be in better physical shape for the Mudder. Dedication to training and a better diet over the next year is key to have the stamina and energy to last 10-12 miles. As I prepare for the Tough Mudder, I will also prepare for American Ninja Warrior. That is my ultimate goal. To at least make it through the first round of qualifying for American Ninja Warrior. I have the right frame of mind for both events, now my body needs to be just as ready.
I love a great challenge. Nothing makes me smile more than facing life obstacles and overcoming them. Making people rethink their comments to me, after they see what I am able to overcome. I love to prove others wrong when it comes to my physical limitations. No one leads my life or knows what I am capable of. The only way to find out is to stand back and watch. Or head to my YouRube channel to watch my videos.
Either way, I will give everyone a reason to stand up and take notice. Not everyone is perfect. We all have our imperfections. Mine just happens to be my vision. Tat never slowed me down.
And it never will.
As Gina and I occupied ourselves on our electronic devices at the airport in Dublin, I was anxiously waiting for the flight to Edinburgh. I had the same feeling, waiting on the flight to Dublin from England. The feeling of knowing a vacation is not over. That you are leaving one international destination for another, instead of heading home to New Jersey. Edinburgh, Scotland would be the final stop on our little less than two-week, whirlwind tour through the UK.
We sat not knowing what gate we would be leaving from. One good thing about the airport was the free wi-fi. It made the wait a little easier. Once they announced our gate we headed right for another seat. Our gate was the last one in the terminal. The walk felt like it put us out on the runway. Even on the outskirts there was still a little place open for coffee, sandwiches, etc. I could not sit. I kept my Lowepro on my back and stood waiting. My eyes were fixated on the monitor, viewing our departure and arrival cities.
I was excited to move on to Scotland. Looking forward to the flight over on Aer Lingus to see another coastline from the air. I enjoyed the constant traveling we had been doing the past several weeks. Two weeks before being in London we were in Orlando, Florida. Looking ahead to another new locale made me grin, just a little. As soon as they announced boarding, Gina and I were first in line. We walked right down the tarmac and walked on over to the plane. Nice little route laid out for us to view our little propeller beauty in all its glory. Not the first time on a flight like this. I like the smaller craft.
We boarded the plane from the rear and informed it was open seating. In other words, you could sit wherever you wanted. Gina and I still opted to sit in our assigned seats. A few passengers could not handle the fact it was open seating. SOme were confused, others who came in later found themselves scrounging for an open seat. In the end, not much of a hassle. Everyone was situated and went about business as usual.
It was a very smooth ride over to Scotland. Another hour flight that was seamless. When we landed in Scotland it was raining. There is a shocker. They had a shuttle bus waiting to drive everyone over to the proper arrival gate. We had a nice tour of the airport as we were riding. Once inside it was a small wait for our luggage. All was running smoothly for us to get out as quick as possible. By the time we had our luggage it was not long before we spotted our driver who would take us to our hotel. A quick walk to the awaiting mini van and we were on our way.
Even in the rain we could see the varying shades of green that made up Scotland’s landscape. While conversing with the driver, he pointed out the offices and campus of the Royal Bank of Scotland (RBS). Many of the homes and developments we passed we beautiful. Given the hills and terrain of the areas they sure had some nice sections to live in. The design of some that lined up on roads heading higher up must be outstanding.
As we drive into the heart of Edinburgh we notice Edinburgh Castle towering above Edinburgh, West Princes Street Gardens, and East Princes Street Gardens. Astounding sight to see from a distance. For us, it was very easy to spot. Our hotel was situated in a perfect location to see it. When Gina booked our room, she picked the one room that has a direct view of Edinburgh Castle from one of its windows. This way, no matter when we wanted to look at the castle, we could.
We stayed at The Rutland, which made me laugh every time I said it or thought about it. For those who do not get the reference from first glance, let me share the joke with you. It reminded me of a phony band who became real, The Rutles. The Rutles were created by Eric Idle and Neil Innes for 1970s television programming, became an actual group (while remaining a parody of The Beatles) and toured and recorded, releasing two UK chart hits.
Created as a short sketch in Idle’s UK television comedy series Rutland Weekend Television, the Rutles gained fame after being the focus of the 1978 mockumentary television film, All You Need Is Cash (The Rutles). Encouraged by the reaction to the sketch, featuring Beatles’ music pastiches by Neil Innes, the film was written by Idle, who co-directed it with Gary Weis. It had 20 songs written by Innes, which he performed with three musicians as “The Rutles”. That mockumentary was introduced to me in 1996 by my good friend Paul Jones. I have been a fan of Ron Nasty, Dirk McQuickly, Stig O’Hara, and Barry Wom, otherwise known as the Pre Fab Four, since then.
Any true Beatles fan should check out the film and their albums. The film needs to be watched more than once to get the insane amount of Beatles references written into it. With cameos from John Belushi, Dan Aykroyd, Bill Murray, Gilda Radner, Paul Simon, Mick Jagger, Michael Palin, George Harrison, Bianca Jagger, Ron Wood, and even Lorne Michaels. Highly recommended from so many Beatles fans, it will keep you laughing. Not to mention the music, so beautifully done. George Harrison was involved in the making of the movie.
So as a Rutles fan, staying in the Rutland, made for a fun couple days. I had Tweeted that I was a Rutles fan staying at The Rutland and the employee running The Rutland’s Twitter account retweeted it and responded back. The following morning I met the employee behind their Twitter account. Nice little conversation about the band and film. Love to find fans from different areas that enjoy the same cult classics.
The Rutland is a quaint boutique style hotel located in the West End. A small glass elevator and staircase take you to the two floors that have all the rooms. Under fifteen rooms in this hotel. Our room had a nice luxury king sized bed and like I said, great view of Edinburgh castle. The bathroom had an oddly designed shower. No sliding door, no curtain, no nothing really. Just half a glass wall with the rest of the shower exposed to the rest of the bathroom. Otherwise a nice, relaxing room.
Right next to the hotel in the same building was a steakhouse Kyloe and bar/restaurant called The Huxley. From breakfast to last call, The Huxley serves it all. Both The Huxley and Kyloe share their wi-fi with The Rutland. During peak times and the evening, the bandwidth was quite slow. One can understand how frustrating it can be surfing the web or uploading photos. Gina and I did not let that take away from the trip. If The Rutland really wants to keep their guests happy, they should have separate wi-fi for their hotel guests.
Knowing the weather would not get any better the entire time we were in Edinburgh, we head out into the elements. The rain had let up so it was safe to walk. We walked Princes Street and viewed the old city of Edinburgh on the other side, way past the gardens. We passed some stores we became familiar with in Ireland and England. Then you had your traditional shops for everything Scotland. Reminded me of a Saturday Night Live sketch with Mike Myers portraying a Scottish gift shop owner. The store was called “If It’s Not Scottish, It’s Crap”. Now yell that in a heavy Scottish brogue. Those who saw the sketch will laugh.
When we had enough along Princes Street we decided it was time for our first taste of Scotland, at the Hard Rock Cafe. Any restaurant you can go and not just listen to the music, but watch the videos of hard rockers Foo Fighters and ACDC was worth the bad joke. We were both craving a good burger and decided on the Hard Rock for that craving. Always worth visiting a known spot like the Hard Rock in the different countries they operate. I have been to their locations in New York, Las Vegas, Orlando, Cancun, Hollywood, and missed the one’s in London & Dublin. Shame on me.
We started off with one server, Amy, who brought us our drinks. Having a Hard Rock Iced Tea was a great way to kick back and watch Foo Fighter’s “Walk” amongst some other great rock videos. By the time we received our nachos platter as a starter, we had a new server, Mike. He introduced himself by saying “Hello, I will be your new server, Mike. But if you have any complaints, my name is Amy”. Really funny server. He had no tables, only us for the time being. Every thirty seconds or so he came back with more schtick. We were having fun, it was great.
We devoured the entire plate of nachos. Piled high with sour cream, cheese, guacamole, retried beans, and more. We knew we were hungry. By this time I was working on my second Hard Rock Iced Tea. I wasn’t driving so a second one sounded good. While talking with our server, he mentions we can make recommendations on videos then asked who we liked. I said we were big AC-DC fans. Mile then asks “which one?” I immediately said Bon Scott.
For those casual AC-DC fans, let me explain. Bon Scott was the original lead singer before his death in 1980 and the band moved forward with Brian Johnson. No disrespect to Brian Johnson, I just prefer Bon Scott. Mike put on “It’s A Long Way To The Top (If You Wanna Rock N Roll)”. Mike was an Australian living in Scotland.
It was about time to finally have a burger. The first one the entire trip including England and Ireland. I had what they cal the S.O.B. Burger. Basted with spicy Chipotle Pepper puree and topped with Monterey Jack cheese. Served on a buttered-toasted bun with Hard Rock Guacamole & grilled onions. It had good heat, I am used to a lot hotter. Gina had the Local Legendary. The Legendary burger always has great flavor using local fare. Every country the Hard Rock is in, they have a burger for that country. This one happened to have haggis on it. Honestly, the haggis was delicious.
I always love a great burger, no matter where it is. Hamburgers are a universal food with so many unique ways to enjoy. Too many combinations to think about. Too staggering to go into now. That leaves another story, for another time. After the burgers that was it on food for the day. The Hard Rock satisfied a craving and gave us some laughs. Oh, kick ass hard rock too.
Always good to walk off a big meal afterwards. Lucky for us, we were walking anyway. But before we could turn the corner, Gina started laughing out of nowhere. She told me to look across the street. There on the phone was a gentleman of true Scottish style. Decked out in a tuxedo coat and shirt accompanied by green plaid pants. Not a great pair either, they resembled pajama pants. As long as he thinks he looked good, that is all that mattered. After that highlight we walked back to the hotel.
Many of the businesses closed early, around 6 PM. By 8 PM, many of the shops were already closed for the night. So unless one wanted to go pub hopping, there was not much to really do in the evening. At least in the area we were in. The nightlife is in their pubs and bars. Considering we were heading to Edinburgh Castle in the morning, we decided to rest up for the long day. In Scotland, the sun still provides some light around 10 PM. I was glad we had dark, heavy curtains to keep the light out. The bed was plush, it made for a nice comfortable sleep.
One item of note regarding toilet’s in the UK is their use of water. They are created to conserve water. So flushing turns into an event. A weak push on the button means a weak flush. I approached it like the game show “Press Your Luck”. Hand over the button and then, no Whammies, no Whammies, No Whammies, STOP! Press it right the first time to create the best water flow. Otherwise it was like trying to start a 79 Ford in freezing weather. Get it wrong the first time, and you will keep trying to turn it over.
The next day would be a busy day, filled with a lot of walking. Our first stop was Edinburgh Castle. There is so much to see in the Castle as well as the views of Scotland around it. After the Castle we would be heading for the Scotch Whiskey Experience and tasting. So we had a day of walking and drinking ahead of us, just like every other place we had been over the past week. Why not have the best scotch whiskey experience possible in the land of Scotch whiskey? Before we could get to any of that. We still needed to have breakfast.
We headed downstairs to The Huxley for a bite before heading to Old Edinburgh. Gina ordered an egg sandwich while I had a sausage sandwich. We combined our ingredients so we could have a sausage and egg sandwich which was pretty delicious. After the sandwiches and coffee we were on our way. The day before we had stopped into a great outdoors store, Mountain Warehouse. Great clothes, camping gear, and everything one could want for the ever changing weather of Scotland. Gina picked up a comfortable pair of walking shoes there before we headed for the castle. Best to have cushioned footwear before doing any long distance walking or running.
It was quite a walk just to get to Edinburgh Castle. It was an uphill walk the entire way. Through winding streets & cobblestone roads it was quite the cardio workout. Old town Edinburgh is visually stunning in regards to the architecture and history of the city. As soon as we approached the Castle entrance there was an enormous construction project going on. They were constructing huge bleacher sections for the Edinburgh Festival’s Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo. It looks large enough to be an NCAA Division I football stadium.
After waiting on-line to get our tickets, we headed right into the Castle walls. There is so much to see and experience. I am not going into every part of the Castle or even all the museum’s that reside inside. That could be a write-up on its own. I will just provide some highlights. The castle sits high atop the volcanic Castle Rock. A royal castle has been there since at least the reign of David I in the 12th century, and the site continued to be a royal residence until the Union of the Crowns in 1603. From the 15th century the castle’s residential role declined, and by the 17th century its principal role was as a military base with a large garrison.
Its importance as a historic monument was recognized from the 19th century, and various restoration programs have been carried out since. As one of the most important fortresses in the Kingdom of Scotland, Edinburgh Castle was involved in many historical conflicts, from the Wars of Scottish Independence in the 14th century, up to the Jacobite Rising of 1745, and has been besieged, both successfully and unsuccessfully, on several occasions.
Few of the present buildings pre-date the Lang Siege of the 16th century, when the medieval defences were largely destroyed by artillery bombardment. The most notable exceptions are St Margaret’s Chapel, which dates from the early 12th century and is the oldest surviving building in Edinburgh, the Royal Palace, and the earl 16th century Great Hall. The castle also houses the Honours of Scotland, the Scottish National War Memorial, and the National War Museum of Scotland.
Edinburgh Castle is in the care of Historic Scotland, and is Scotland’s most-visited paid tourist attraction, with over 1.3 million visitors in 2011. The British Army is responsible for some parts of the castle, although its presence is largely ceremonial and administrative, including a number of regimental museums. As the backdrop to the annual Edinburgh Military Tattoo it has become a recognisable symbol of Edinburgh and of Scotland.
During the Revolutionary War between England and the US Colonies, US POW’s we prisoned within the Castle walls. They languished alongside other POW’s in hopes that the US Colonies would soon gain victory. Walking through the simulated conditions they slept in, where they ate, and how they lived on a daily basis brought to light a side of the American Revolutionary War one can not see o r visit in the United States.
Knowing what they were fighting for and being taken prisoner over made me proud to be American. Sacrifices were being made for liberty and freedom to make sure we had a future as a country. Many still sacrifice today for the freedoms we enjoy and others for granted, and to them I remove my cap and say “Thank you”.
In the middle of all this history we needed a little energy boost. With all the walking, stairs, and varying inclines some food was needed to press on. Inside the Red Coat Cafe was a full working kitchen. Not just some pre-made sandwiches and drinks, but a dining experience . The kitchen prepared hot meals, sandwiches, salads, and more. Some nice biscuits, scones, cakes, and other baked goods. They did have a refrigerated case with drinks, salads, and some other pre-packaged items from the kitchen. Gina and I split a smoked salmon, cream cheese, and cucumber sandwich on wheat bread.
When it came to coffee, they had a full barista set up. No choices of coffee made in the back and brought upfront. Two barista’s preparing fresh coffee, tea, latte’s, cappuccino’s and other notable favorites. No paper plates here either. Real plates, silverware, full tea sets, and everything else as if you brought it from your kitchen cabinet. It was a great set up for a museum cafe. We had a few coffee Americano’s. After taking a seat with a great view of Edinburgh and some shoreline it was time to dig in.
I took this time to take out my portable charger and charge my iPhone. I had been taking photos and video every five seconds. Along with my camera equipment, I like to carry anything tech that can keep any devices powered. On any trip, you need alternative power sources through out the day if you are not near electrical outlets. In between the charging of devices, the sandwich was pretty good. I never had cucumber on a sandwich before but it seemed to be the norm in the UK. I love my smoked salmon and cream cheese. I would prefer it on a bagel, just my preference. The smoked salmon was not too salty, it made the sandwich a little more flavorful while not having to taste salt in every bite.
After our little break we still had so much more to see. Between the museums, the towers, battery’s, memorials, and prisons we had information overload. There was even an exhibit on The Honours of Scotland. Also known as the Scottish regalia and the Scottish Crown Jewels. Dating from the 15th & 16th centuries, are the oldest set of crown jewels in the British Isles. The existing set was used for the coronation of Scottish monarchs from 1543 (Mary I) to 1651 (Charles II). Since then, they have been used to represent Royal Assent to legislation in both the Parliament of Scotland and Scottish Parliament, and have also been used at State occasions, including the first visit to Scotland as sovereign by King George IV in 1822 and the first visit to Scotland as sovereign by Queen Elizabeth in 1953.
There are three primary elements of the Honours of Scotland: the Crown, the Sceptre, and the Sword of State. These three elements also appear upon the crest of the royal coat of arms of Scotland and on the Scottish version of the royal coat of arms of the United Kingdom, where the red lion of the King of Scots is depicted wearing the Crown and holding both the Sword and the Sceptre.
The Honours have had a rather turbulent history. They were first used together to crown the infant Mary Queen of Scots at Stirling Castle in 1543 and were then used at the coronations of James VI in 1567, Charles I in 1633 and, the last sovereign to receive the Honours, Charles II in 1651.
These priceless objects were hastily hidden in the mid 17th century to avoid being destroyed as their English crown jewels had been at the hands of Oliver Cromwell. First they were taken to Dunnottar Castle in Aberdeenshire, from where they were smuggled out during a siege and then buried a few miles away in Kinneff parish church for nine years until the restoration of the monarchy in 1660.
After the Treaty of Union in 1707 removed Scotland’s independent parliament, the Honours of Scotland were considered redundant and were duly locked away in a chest in Edinburgh Castle, where they were literally forgotten about for the next hundred or so years. They did not come to light again until 1818 when, under pressure from Sir Walter Scott, a detailed search of the castle uncovered the box and they were discovered. They were hidden once again during the Second World War for fear of a Nazi invasion and have in total been buried three times. Together with the Stone of Destiny, these symbols of Scottish nationhood are on permanent public display at Edinburgh Castle.
The castle has become a recognisable symbol of Edinburgh, and of Scotland. Their rich history intertwined with those who set foot on their soil to only turn back and leave Scotland to its own people. Although the British Crown still looms overhead, the residents of Scotland will have their day to reside in a country free of the British Crown. One can sense the pride the Scottish have in the Castle and the history it contains. Gina and I took in a wealth of that pride and knowledge the more we learned about it’s history and those who occupied the castle over the ages.
After spending several hours wandering through Edinburgh Castle, we decided to move on to our next stop, the Scotch Whiskey Experience. It just happened to be right down the road from the Castle. We did not have to walk far for the Willy Wonka tour of Scotch whiskey. At the end of the tour is the whiskey tasting. Their Silver package includes the tasting of one Scotch whiskey. The Gold package includes the sampling of five different Scotch whisky’s. We opted for the Gold package. After our experience at the Jameson Whiskey Distillery, we knew we wanted to sample more than just one scotch whiskey.
The start of the tour was an automated ride through the whiskey making and distilling process. A swirling, bubbling barrel ride through a replica distillery as you become part of the whisky making process. Along the way you’ll hear the stories behind this magical craft, with expert tour guides and whisky advisors with you every sip of the way. We had learned the process at the Jameson Distillery in Ireland. The only difference is Scotch whiskey is distilled twice instead of the three times by Jameson standards. In addition, there are four regions in Scotland that produce signature Scotch whiskey. They are Speyside, Islay, Lowland, and Highland.
After our ride through the learning experience, we were then seated with others to learn the differences between the four regions. From the land they grow the ingredients in to the different casks used to give the Scotch whiskey its unique taste and aroma from each region. One can equate the knowledge of fine whiskey to the knowledge of fine wines. It was here we each had to pick region we wanted to taste a sample from. Gina and I both chose the Islay (pronounced eye-la) region for its smokey flavor and aroma. From there we moved on to a room containing the world’s largest collection of Scotch whiskey. Over 3,000 bottles lined countless shelves to showcase what one man in Brazil had collected, then donated to the Scotch Whiskey Experience.
While being surrounded by endless bottle of Scotch whiskey, we learned the correct method for tasting and sampling Scotch whiskey. Once again, a process that could remind one of wine tasting. It was fun to Learn these valuable techniques while being surrounded by Scotch whiskey. It made the anticipation of tasting all those fine batches of Scotch whiskey worthwhile. While everyone was learning the intricacies of sampling, I was already done with my Scotch whiskey sample. I could not wait. I wanted to taste that smooth, smokey flavor. By the time we arrived at the bar, my mouth was watering for more.
We received a great selection of single malt Scotch whiskey’s to sample. Five samples with tasting notes to let us know what we were truly tasting. Gina and I were feeling pretty good by the time we finished the tour. A few more samples and I would be sampling the floor. Just kidding. I have said this before, with the end of any tour comes the gift shop. Bottles of every size representing every region lined the store shelves. We picked up some sample Bowmore bottles from the Islay region to bring home and try. We now have a better appreciation for Scotch whiskey, more importantly, whiskey in general.
As the day was wearing on we started walking down the Royal Mile. The Royal Mile is the name given to a succession of streets forming the main thoroughfare of the Old Town of the city of Edinburgh in Scotland. The name was first used in W M Gilbert’s Edinburgh in the Nineteenth Century (1901), and was further popularised as the title of a guidebook, published in 1920.
The thoroughfare, as the name suggests, is approximately one Scots mile long and runs downhill between two significant locations in the history of Scotland, namely Edinburgh Castle and Holyrood Palace. The streets which make up the Royal Mile are (west to east) Castlehill, the Lawnmarket, the High Street, the Canongate and Abbey Strand. The Royal Mile is the busiest tourist street in the Old Town, rivalled only by Princes Street in the New Town. There was fewer shopping along the Royal Mile route. That did not stop us from stopping in one store to get kilted.
Gina and I had been seeing deals on kilts and accessories. WE decided one this one shop along the Royal Mile for their designs and service. The young gentleman had explained the pieces and what came in the set. After measuring and deciding, there was a good banter going back and forth. He had spent time at University of Mississippi a few years back and enjoyed his time here in the US. We then finished discussing our day thus far. When Gina and I talked in detail about the whiskey experience, he shared the appreciation for a great Scotch whiskey. We asked for some Scotch recommendations and he came up with Laphroaig, Dalwhinnie, Bowmore, and a few others.
As we said good-bye we asked where would be a good place to sample some good Scotch Whiskey and where to go for dinner. We wanted to get some really good local recommendations on where locals go to unwind. Two spots he talked in detail about seemed to be the running favorites. For dinner, we chose the Auld Hundred and after dinner we would head to the Black Cat for some Scotch Whiskey. After we left, we noticed we had purchased one of his Scotch recommendations at the Whiskey experience before. We knew we were already on the right path. The day provided for great conversation back to the hotel.
After dropping off our various daily plunder we made for Rose Street as that was a main walking thoroughfare for restaurants and pubs. The Auld Hundred is a great old pub. Downstairs is the main bar with some tables. Up a narrow winding staircase is the main dining room. More tables and booths along with the main kitchen was upstairs. They pride themselves in providing traditional Scottish hospitality and serving fantastic traditional pub food.
We started off with a couple Guinness and matched crayfish cocktail starters. Not too many restaurants in New Jersey or New York serve crayfish otherwise called crawfish or craw daddies. I love the texture of crayfish after my great experience with them ion Alabama. Great way to start the meal. After that treat came the Auld Hundred Steak Pie. Their special recipe steak topped with puff pastry served with vegetables and lightly grilled potatoes. I love puff pastry with anything. It reminded me of a beef stew pie. Very tender and the sauce just made a great compliment to the beef.
After those dishes there was still room for dessert. Their daily special for dessert was giving me the Jedi mind trick. I knew I wanted it, it was calling to me. Their special was a homemade rhubarb crumble served with custard. The woman who served it had made the deserts and also seated us when we came in. It was her crumble she had made. I was savoring every bite of this delectable crumble. I love desserts of this nature. the crumble mixed with the fresh, hot custard blended together just right. The tart of the rhubarb combined in it all made for a memorable meal. Apparently, the couple opposite of us thought the same as the gentleman also ordered the rhubarb crumble. He and I had ordered the final two servings.
The rhubarb crumble started a conversation between all of us. That is what these pubs are for, casual conversation with those around you. As we were talking, a quartet of ladies sat down next to us. After their day of shopping they needed a break like the rest of us. What caught my attention about them was one of the ladies ordered a Guinness with a straw.
Let me repeat that.
She ordered a Guinness, with a straw.
Take a second for that to seep in. After being in Ireland, savoring my first Guinness and learning the correct pour of a finely crafted Guinness I considered this blasphemy. For some odd reason, a small demographic of females do enjoy their brew with a straw. When I was a server at Applebee’s, two ladies always had their Coors Light with straws. Sad, but true. To each their own.
While leaving the Auld Hundred, I could not stop taking about the rhubarb crumble. It brought up my top desserts I have had in the past. Anytime you mix a homemade crust with fresh berries you can never go wrong. A few years back, Gina worked a few doors down from a trained French pastry chef. Gina told her the items I love in crust and her friend said she had the perfect item and to come back later. Gina brought home a perfectly sized fresh berry tart about two inches high and 12 inches wide. Nothing but fresh pie crust and berries. I was Homer Simpson at that point.
Back to Scotland and leaving the Auld Hundred. A couple blocks down was the Black Cat. An establishment where even James Dean would be comfortable. I place to hang, talk, enough good rock music and one of the best selections of Scotch in Edinburgh according to reviews on Foursquare. We ordered a couple Dalwhinnie glasses for each of us. That signature Islay taste was there. A great smooth flavor with smokey taste. I nice sipping Scotch. If we had more time, we could have set up at one of their outside tables for a couple of hours, sipping different Scotch whiskey’s. It capped off the end to a truly memorable day in Scotland.
We were really beat from all the walking we did. Easy decision to go back to the hotel after that. The next day would be our last full day in Scotland. We had no big plan. We decided to spend it looking around Old Town Edinburgh. We wanted to explore the other side of Princes Street as the older section intrigued us more. I was counting on a good night sleep after all the walking we just did. I was pushing myself each day there at the end. Maximizing our time walking, seeing everything we could each day was taking its toll. Gina was looking forward to going home soon for rest.
The following day we headed back downstairs to The Huxley for breakfast. I decided to be daring and ordered a haggis and fried egg sandwich. It was a little gooey from the egg, but it was a great sandwich. The haggis was fresh and tasted world’s apart from what I had in the United States. This was what haggis is supposed to taste like. Another great breakfast down and off we went. No slated destination. Just a chance to walk around the Old Town and see what we come across.
Walk we did. We went where our feet would take us. A few times we turned around and changed direction. When we finally chose the right path we found ourselves at the National Museum of Scotland. Admission is free so it was an easy decision to explore the museum. Five levels covering Scotland, World Cultures, Science and Technology, and Art & Design. Exhibits from every part of the globe. A great cross section of exhibits kept it interesting. From Scotland’s history to the advancement of the world and world cultures, the museum showcased it all.
Their Grand Gallery is a magnificent, public space at the heart of the Victorian building with its elegant cast-iron and glass roof, that displays large-scale objects. Art, statues, and even a helicopter or two can be seen lining the Grand Gallery. It is hard to ignore the space and relics seen around this hall. Hawthornden Court starts a journey of discovery through the Scottish collections, displayed over five floors of dramatic contemporary architecture. On the first floor in the Court is the F1 racing car belonging to Jackie Stewart OBE.
Some of the objects highlighted there are rare and precious, others are made significant by the people who once owned them or the journeys they have made. Some are old and mysterious, others were made recently, specially for their collection. But all have a story to tell. Everyone walks away from one that is their favorite. I enjoyed the Tibetan Prayer wheels. Many will remember the scene from the movie “The Golden Child” with Eddie Murphy when he raps while spinning one of them. I said my own prayers as I spun the wheels.
We took our time walking through each level grasping parts of history that we do not study in our History classes in school. Dolly, the first cloned mammal, was on display. Everyone remembers the sheep who was cloned. Many items from the Kingdom of the Scots was on display. Dinosaurs, Egyptian coffins, cars, weaponry, rockets, and so much more that tell a story about world history is displayed for everyone to see and experience. Many hands on exhibits so kids can learn while they interact with certain exhibits. If I go into detail about everything we saw in the museum, you would stop reading. Kidding. Too much to go into.
It would take me too long to look at every exhibit and read it. With my vision, the museum would close before I had a chance to read everything that I viewed. I relied on Gina to read a lot of what we saw. One of the disadvantages in having central vision loss is being able to keep pace with others in a museum, or around anything that needs to be read for that matter. I would write more for you here if I was able to read more there. Glad I still have a great memory to at least share with you all the highlights that I experienced.
After all the walking in the museum we needed a little break. A little place to have a drink, relax, and recharge the batteries. Both our batteries and the electronic devices. As it turned out, we came across The Elephant House. Opened in 1995, The Elephant House has established itself as one of the best tea and coffee houses in Edinburgh. Made famous as the place of inspiration to writers such as J.K. Rowling, who sat writing much of her early novels in the back room overlooking Edinburgh Castle. Ian Rankin, author of the bestselling Rebus novels, and Alexander McCall-Smith, author of The No.1 Ladies’ Detective Agency and other series of novels, have also frequented The Elephant House, as well as many others throughout the years.
Seats are not easy to come by in The Elephant House. We found one right in the back. They serve a great cup of coffee and great pastries there. A visit is in order if you need a break from daily action in Old Town Edinburgh. Always better to have a barista make your coffee rather than pressing a button on a pot made thirty minutes ago. After a brief rest we were deciding on which way to walk back to Princes Street. We decided to walk along the other side of Edinburgh Castle that was the furthest from the streets and bridges that lead to Princes Street.
Not too much lined the route we were walking down. A few buildings to the left and that was about it. The path we walked was at the base of the castle. Looking straight up gave us a perspective attacking foes saw as they decided which area of the structure was the best to attack. From our vantage point, they would have needed ropes and lessons in rock climbing if they planned on scaling what seemed to be a mountain leading up to the castle walls. Pictures do not do the castle justice. The views we had of the castle compared to what we saw the day before really magnified the scope of how awesome the structure really is.
As we came around the path it led us to West Princes Street Gardens. A wonderful open area with lush lawns, flowers, trees, and more foliage than even Central Park can muster on its best day. Many lined the benches, relaxing along the lawn, while others strolled through the park. It was very quiet. Not much talking going on by anyone, just a lot of relaxing and quiet to take in the beauty the park possesses. We walked a little slower just to be able to take it all in.
The park has served the city of Edinburgh since it’s creation in 1770s and later the 1829s following the long draining of the Nor Loch and the creation of the New Town. The Nor Loch was a large loch on the north side of the town, making expansion northwards difficult. It was heavily polluted from centuries of sewage draining downhill from the Old Town. The gardens run along the south side of Princes Street and are divided by The Mound. East Princes Street Gardens run from The Mound to Waverley Bridge, and cover 8.5 acres. The larger West Princes Street Gardens cover 29 acres.
We did a little shopping and stopped in at Boots, a UK Pharmacy chain similar to Walgreens (They own 45% of the parent company). They focus on health and beauty aids, make up, cold beverages of many varieties, hair care, skin care, baby care, and so much more. Gina loved their selection of Rimmel make up. She found items in Scotland and London one can not find here in America. We even found a body lotion by Nivea that you apply in the shower. Just apply, rinse, towel dry off. It is that simple men! We hope Nivea releases the product here in the US as we brought home only one bottle.
We were starting to get a little sluggish. It had been a while since we had food of substance. We headed for Rose Street. Many restaurants to choose from, but which one. A consistent item on each menu here was another seafood chowder. This one though was prepared with a white cream base compared to the red chowder in Ireland. We stopped to view the menu at the Mussel Inn which has locations in both Edinburgh and Glasgow. They had a lunch special that included their creamy seafood chowder, a side order of chips, and either a soda or beer for about 8 Euros each. Not a bad deal to get some seafood chowder and a beer with the meal.
A few years back, I met author and Lynda.com contributor Anthony Artis. At the time, he was an adjunct professor at Tisch NYU and I read his book on proper documentary filming and I needed advice. We met for breakfast at a great place in Greenwich Village called Rock Around The Clock. They served up a fantastic huevos rancheros along with a bottle of Heineken. A meal always seems to look better when a beer is a part of the package, including breakfast. Unfortunately, Rock Around The Clock is no longer around.
The chowder in Scotland has more fresh fish and less seafood than the one I had in Ireland. I could barely talk the chowder was that good. Along with the piece of crusty bread they give you it is a satisfying meal. The chips just happened to be a welcome addition. The chowder was not enough. A few more bowls of it would have sufficed. Many rave about the seafood chowder at the Mussel Inn and now I know why. I would revisit and try more there in future visits.
By the time we left we both just wanted to go back to the hotel and relax. The next day was our flight back to the United States. We had to make sure everything was packed right. All the items we bought, dirty clothes, bottles of Scotch, everything. We had an early flight so we really needed to get some rest. I was not too sure how much sleep I would get on the plane, I wanted to be sure I got some this night. Between being on my iPad and watching TV reruns it was not easy falling asleep. Gina was out like a light while I was awake.
By the time I was sleeping like a baby it was time to wake up. Just enough time to grab a shower, get dressed, and bring everything downstairs to our awaiting ride to the airport. There was a beautiful sunrise coming up over New Town Edinburgh. Made me wish I had been awake to view more during our trip. I am not a morning person, but I wish I had pushed myself to see more of what joy the sunrise has to offer.
Once at the airport there was only one item on my mind. Coffee. Our terminal had some pretty decent places to eat. There was a Nero cafe where Gina and I sat down for coffee and breakfast sandwiches. Love the baristas at Nero. Also in the terminal was a Yo! Sushi. It was too early for it to be open but a great place to have in the airport. Then you had your typical duty free stores and newsstands for other items. Once again, happy for free airport wi-fi. Makes waiting for the plane a lot easier.
As time passed the terminal outside the gate was filling up. The flight was packed. Since we were seated in Economy Plus we boarded right after First Class. Extra leg room in Economy Plus which made the flight home tolerable. I took the window seat as I really wanted to get a little sleep on the way home. We picked up five hours on the plane ride home. I did not want an experience similar to the one I had flying out to England, getting no sleep and being sluggish for the day.
I was able to sleep more than half way through the trip. Which left about three hours to sit and entertain myself. Since the in flight movies were free, I decided to watch Argo. Great film. Alan Arkin, John Goodman, and Ben Affleck had great chemistry together. Very enjoyable to watch and a must see. By the time the movie was over we had less than an hour until landing in Newark. Not much to do at this point but to ride out the rest of the flight. Gina and I wanted to make sure everything was packed back into our carry on luggage to get off the plane as quick as possible.
By the time Gina and I were off the plane in Newark we could not wait to grab our luggage and head for home. Worn out from the plane ride and two weeks of constant motion can take a toll on a person. To be honest, in every hotel we stayed in I did not get the best night;s sleep. I was awake a lot, tossing and turning. I was glad to be home, in my own bed, with my own pillows. Hotels need firmer pillows, not down filled ones that provide no head or neck support. That is a big key to a good night of sleep.
The time spent in England, Ireland, and Scotland was a memorable one for sure. I can vividly remember each day of our trip. It was one for the Levy history books. I came home a different person. Having a better sense of self and a new focus on life. There is so much more I could write about, but not enough time to discuss everything in detail. I needed to get some summaries done first so I can focus on those points of interest that deserve more scope.
I have always been a proponent for stepping outside one’s comfort zone. The proverbial box so to speak. For the further you travel outside that zone, the more you know about who you are. Travel is meant to be fun and try new things, go new places. Your life is your own television show. Create fresh, new episodes with each new destination or it can be filled with repeats of the same place, over and over again. Whichever one makes you happy, then have fun and enjoy. For myself, the world is here to be sampled, one country at a time.
Next Saturday August 3rd, I will be running in the Warrior Dash at Lewis Morris Memorial Park in Morristown, NJ. Will have some info to come before and after the race. If you made it this far, thank you for taking the ride with me through England, Ireland, and Scotland. I hope you enjoyed the written ride and it has you craving more. More rides to share in over the next few months.
When you think about deciding on where to travel next, remember one of my favorite quotes from Robert Frost.
“Two roads diverged in a wood and I, I took the one less traveled by, and that has made all of the difference.”
When I look back at my time in Ireland, I look on it very fondly. I always knew I would get to London, England. I just knew at some point in my life, I would get there. If you read my last piece, you know what I mean., Ireland though, never seemed to play out on the “mental travel map of life”. But because of my wife and her Irish ancestry, I knew it would only be a matter of time before we paid visit to The Emerald Isle.
After spending a few days in England we head on off to Dublin, Ireland. Back in Heathrow, but not to fly home, but to go to Dublin. To be in one foreign country, then to see your next destination is another new country really made me feel like a traveler. Another chuckle to myself for a great first time memory. Later, Gina and I recalled our experiences together. There is a feeling of adventure knowing you are not going home, not quite yet.
We waited for our flight on Aer Lingus to Dublin. I usually like to gauge who the other passengers are around me. Always cognizant of my surroundings. It appeared there was an American travel group composed of seniors also on our flight. They were easy to spot out thanks to one individual. This woman did not only drone on long enough, but just loud enough for everyone to hear. Not just in the terminal, but on the plane as well. When they announced boarding, Gina and I were close to the counter. There was a member of their group that tried to squeeze their way past Gina in a spot no one can get through. Gina was not about to let that happen.
We find our seats and prepare for the hour flight into Dublin. Then a few rows up what do I hear, but that woman going on again. Talking about her previous visits to Dublin, going to Africa, and other destinations over her time. Talking just loud enough for enough people to hear. I have said this before, when one travels they are a representative of their country. Others perceive Americans based on their encounters with them. So why give people something bad to talk about?
About half way into the flight, she finally stopped talking. By then I had tuned her out a bit, but glad the jack hammer stopped. Just enough time for some so-so coffee before we landed. On our approach, we had a fantastic view of the Ireland coast. To see the patchwork of green, in so many lush shades was a sight to behold. To see your approach into a country like that definitely makes you smile. Even better to hear it announced to you from your Irish pilot. One will hear that more than Gaelic, which is spoken only by 7% of the population.
We made our way up to the customs agent and he had a pleasant demeanor. Asking the typical questions of why we are visiting. Gina replying for vacation. The agent responds by saying they might have a spot or two for us. So Gina responds as there better be as her Grandfather is from Ireland so she can just have his spot. A funny moment where we all laughed. My wife’s grandfather is originally from Galway. Galway, or the City of Galway, is in the West Region and the province of Connacht. Once past customs we found our luggage pretty fast and met our taxi driver pretty fast to take us to our hotel.
In each country, we had a car service waiting to drive us to our hotel when we arrived and take us back to the airport for our next departure. It saves a lot of time and guarantees you get right to your hotel without getting lost on your own. The fare in Ireland is set by the Government. It is $40 in Euros each way and is the standard charge no matter who you use as a car service. In England and Scotland we had the pleasure of being picked up in some great vehicles. Mercedes-Benz and BMW to name a few besides the taxi’s in Dublin.
As we left the airport I was like a dog who loves to ride in the car. I was staring out the window at everything that passed us. All of the green landscapes, trees, residential homes and developments to the stores and pubs that outlined the main roads on the way to our hotel. It was great, as always, to see daily life elsewhere. One issue they have is high unemployment and a lot of stores unused. Some countries have it worse than the United States. Ireland relies heavily on American tourism and its economy. Many Irish file for work visa’s as finding work here is easier.
We arrive at our hotel, The Morrison Hotel. The Morrison is located in the heart of Dublin city, on the banks of the River Liffey, and only steps across the Millennium Bridge from the lively quarter of Temple Bar. This superior hotel is renowned for its style, ambience and atmosphere, and their recent renovation has only strengthened their position as a hip and vibrant premier destination for both local and international visitors.
The Morrison has always kept its visitors feeling energized by keeping a hint of Rock n’ Roll in the air, and during the renovation, have taken care to preserve this distinctive, artistic aura, with nods to legendary Irish musicians, bands and artists throughout. From the artwork to the furniture, the style of rock seems to infiltrate The Morrison. They are also a DoubleTree in the Hilton Hotel family.
Our room was no exception. The use of color and the lighting worked. Subtle light with purple neon overtones was vibrant next to the grey and white colors of the room. Even matching certain pillow with the colored lighting. Very spacious room and a better bed than London. Pillows make all the difference. The firmer the pillow, the better the room. None of this feather down nonsense. If I travel locally, I do bring my memory foam pillow. Sleep is key when traveling anywhere.
Not the best view but still a very relaxing room. Your room key also activates the room’s power once inserted into a certain card slot. Wall outlets were still active, though. Always make sure you carry enough power converters with you. Different wall sockets and wattage. 220 watts in the UK, 110 here in the USA. This hotel had excellent wi-fi no matter where you were in the hotel. If you like to share your pictures fast, the wi-fi or internet speed is key. There are many business travelers who depend on it.
After putting everything away we still had enough time to get some sightseeing in as well as some much-needed food. We cross the river right into the Temple Bar area of Dublin. More like a pub and restaurant district. Every side had a pub or restaurant of some kind. Mixed in with street performers, Temple Bar souvenir stores, tattoo shops, bakeries, and a plethora of other shops. Unlike the areas surrounding it, Temple Bar has preserved its medieval street pattern, with many narrow cobbled streets. It is promoted as “Dublin’s cultural quarter” and has a lively nightlife that is popular with tourists.
The area is the location of many Irish cultural institutions, including the Irish Photography Center (incorporating the Dublin Institute of Photography, the National Photographic Archives and the Gallery of Photography), the Irish Film Institute, incorporating the Irish Film Archive, the Temple Bar Music Centre, the Arthouse Multimedia Centre, Temple Bar Gallery and Studio, the Project Arts Centre, the Gaiety School of Acting, as well as the Irish Stock Exchange and the Central Bank of Ireland.
After dark, the area is a major centre for nightlife, with many tourist-focused nightclubs, restaurants and bars. Pubs in the area include The Porterhouse, the Oliver St. John Gogarty, the Turk’s Head, the Temple Bar, Czech Inn, the Quays Bar, the Foggy Dew and the Purty Kitchen.
Oliver St. John Gogarty’s. The first stop for a bite in Dublin and my first Guinness ever. Gogarty’s has plenty of rave reviews in Yelp and TripAdvisor. Also my second. Never did I think an Irish Pub would draw out such emotion to make me tear up. An experience a lifetime in the making worth having with the best travel partner. The comfort there spoke volumes from the people around me. Sometimes the best comfort zone is the one we never expect. I may be the outsider, but that day I fit right in.
Oliver Joseph St John Gogarty (August 1878 – September 1957) was an Irish poet, author, otolaryngologist, athlete, politician, and well-known conversationalist, who served as the inspiration for Buck Mulligan in James Joyce’s novel Ulysses. An annual Oliver St. John Gogarty Literary Festival is held in the author’s family home, now the Renvyle House Hotel in Connemara. Not only is Gogarty’s a bar, but a restaurant, a venue for hire, apartments for rent to tourists, and a hostel. The hostel is the only one in Dublin with it’s own bar inside.
I never had Guinness before. I always looked at it and based on that, never tried it. But here I am in the “Land of Guinness”, I had to at least try it. I was so glad I did. Smooth, robust with flavor it went down too smooth. It really made the experience at Gogarty’s a pleaser. Sitting, tapping my leg in tune with the great music being played. Yes, I can keep a beat. I am not that white. Our table was ringside to all the action that happened in the main room. Bar set back, Guinness barrels used as bar tables, while other smaller tables lined the outside of the bar while the music played.
Two musicians just sat and played some great music. One strummed a guitar while the other played on the banjo. It made for a memorable experience. It did not matter who you were, your background, or age, anyone could just come in and feel accepted. Just sit back, have a drink, and enjoy. Someone even got up and did a little jig. The entertainment came from more than just the music.
We had the entertainment, we had our Guinness, now it was time to get our pub grub. After having The Codfather at The Anchor Pub in England, I had to try the fish & chips here in Ireland. There was no disappointment in that decision. Their traditional fish & chips was the perfect first meal. Fish was sweet & melted in your mouth with a nice hearty crunch from the beer batter. The chips, prepared perfectly with that outside crisp and inside texture of mashed potatoes. The salad felt like I emptied a grass clippings bag with a few branches in it. Combine the meal with the Guinness and it was a meal to have again.
A mark was left on me at Gogarty’s and the Temple Bar section. From there we walked the streets to see what else surrounded us. We checked out so many side streets, boutique stores, clothing stores, and everything else that lined our way to Grafton Street. Grafton Street is one of the two principal shopping streets in Dublin‘s city centre, the other being Henry Street. It runs from Saint Stephen’s Green in the south (at the highest point of the street) to College Green in the north (to the lowest point). In 2008, Grafton Street was the fifth most expensive main shopping street in the world.
There is so much shopping on Grafton Street. Clothing stores, flowers, jewelry, the Disney Store, gelato, flower stands, coffee, and so much more. Street performers are everywhere. Not just musicians, but artists, sand sculptures, bubble creators, and anyone else looking to make an artistic Euro. Some of the musicians even sold CD”s of their work. True artistry being done by some of the guitar players. The interpretations of U2 by some were radio quality. It did make walking in certain areas more enjoyable.
Now since we had eaten a late lunch, neither of us wanted dinner. So we just strolled on back to the hotel. Every time we crossed the river on the way back, the sunset seemed to be so close to touch. The sun just hung there and always left a great mark on the day. Even at 10 PM, it was still light outside. Besides making sure every device is charged fir the next day, there was still not much on TV. There were more English speaking channels, Dumb and Dumber was on one night.
One of the most important ways to start a day is with a good shower. The one in our bathroom was invigorating. I nice 16 inch wide shower head encapsulated you and the water pressure made for a great water stream. A long tub just made the shower at The Morrison that much more enjoyable. The next most important way to start the day is with coffee. Or breakfast. I guess it can be a close tie. The hotel had a fantastic breakfast buffet. Each morning was a no brainer.
It included scrambled eggs which were miles beyond better than the buffet in London. English bacon, sausages, blood sausage, small potatoes, smoked salmon & other meats, a selection of cheeses, and a great array of artesian breads. One could also order waffles, omelet, or pancakes amongst other specialty items. The coffee was good. Robust and a great way to help start the day. I cut small pieces of the brown artesian bread and placed my smoked salmon on that. The salmon just melted. Not too salty and a superb taste. It could have used a little cream cheese, it’s what every Jewish kid grows up with.
Since we stoked our internal fire pretty well we knew we had a great day ahead of us. The first destination was Trinity College and the Book of Kells. Taking a walk through the cobbled stones of Trinity College brings visitors back to the 18th century, when the magnificent Old Library building was constructed. Inside is housed the Book of Kells. The Book of Kells is an illuminated manuscript Gospel book in Latin, containing the four Gospels of the New Testament together with various prefatory texts and tables. It was created by Celtic monks ca. 800 or slightly earlier. It is a masterwork of Western calligraphy and it is also widely regarded asIreland’s finest national treasure.
By the time we arrived at Trinity College the line was about 45 minutes long. The wait was worth it. When would we have a second chance? The chance to see any country’s deep history is exciting. Taking a moment to view what is considered of great importance. Visitors enter through the Library Shop and proceed to the Book of Kells “Turning Darkness into Light” exhibition; then to the Treasury where the Book of Kells and other related manuscripts are on view; then proceed upstairs to the magnificent Long Room which houses 200,000 of the Library’s oldest books in its oak bookcases.
The Long Room also showcased some busts of the world’s greatest philosophers, writers, theorists, and countless other contributors to the advancement of Western Civilization. The relics showcased with some amazing journals and texts highlighted periods to provide a more in depth perspective of the period. It is one thing to go to a museum and become immersed in the exhibits. When you travel to a foreign country and view items that will never come stateside, that becomes more than a memory. It becomes something real, to have that once-in-a-lifetime moment to view an important part of human history regardless of whose history it is.
Not too far from Trinity College is Dublin Castle. Dublin Castle was until 1922 under the seat of British rule in Ireland, and is now a major Irish government complex. Most of it dates from the 18th century, though a castle has stood on the site since the days of King John, the first Lord of Ireland in the early 1200’s. The Record Tower is the sole surviving tower of the medieval castle dating from circa 1228. It is amazing to see a true castle in person, not one by Disney. This one was closed though. It seemed the entire Castle and surrounding buildings were closed from February until July so they can maintain the buildings and structures.
After taking a few photos we walked around to the Castle Gardens. Designed in the style of ancient Celtic jewelery the large grass area lies on the site of the Black Pool or in Irish, Dubh Linn. I n Celtic and Viking times the River Poddle, which supplied fresh drinking water and filled the moat of Dublin Castle, also formed a pool at this spot. The Vikings used this pool as a sheltered harbour for their ships. It is from the Dubh Linn pool that Dublin gets its English name. The Poddle today is a memory and has long been confined to a sewer. Only recently developed into formal gardens, the area is now a multi-purpose part of the castle grounds.
While similar to European gardens, Irish gardens usually have a slight twist, which makes them unique and especially attractive. The garden at the Dublin Castle is a strong example of this trait. As one can see, the flat lawn inside a low, circular, walled area is repeatedly bisected by narrow black swirls., much like a marbled cake. If you look closely, at the beginning of the swirl is a face much like a stylized snake.
I was taken in by the colorful and bold artwork scattered around the garden. Colorful ceramic tiles at the bird bath, a giant glass snake, the memorial to the 2003 Special Olympics. We took our time to walk around and explore. The central area of the gardens is surrounded by wooden benches sporting a low-key Ogham design (Ogham being the ancient Irish system of writing), while the grassy middle part is interrupted by a Celtic design formed by paving stones. This is only really visible from the air – and actually is used as a helicopter landing pad on occasion. There is a walkway that is used to enter one of the adjacent buildings, but it’s ramp can be used to get a better aerial view.
From there we wandered for a bit to take note on the endless varying cuisines up and down Dame St and South Great Georges Street. Restaurants for every palate and taste bud were around. Your Irish Pub’s, French, Indian, Moroccan, Spanish, Mexican, Turkish, Chinese, American, and more just there for the sampling. I think our minds were on overload as to who to try. Many great menus and so little time. We remembered a few to see which would be great for dinner. We still had a great day ahead of us.
Majority of the attractions in Dublin were in walking distance of our hotel. Gina centrally located us so we would not be far from majority of what we wanted to do. The Zoo, Irish Museum of Modern Art, and other notable attractions were just a taxi ride away, if we wanted to visit. Our next stop along the Levy Dublin Tour was Christ Church cathedral. I believe that is the first time the names “Levy” and “Christ” have been used in the same sentence. The Book of Kells was the main item on our to-do list for the day. The other attractions we either stumbled upon or checked on the map to see what was close within walking distance. It made for a great, educational day.
This magnificent cathedral was designed to be seen from the river, so walk to it from the riverside in order to truly appreciate its size. We walked to it from Dame Street instead. It dates from 1038, when Sitric, Danish king of Dublin, built the first wooden Christ Church here. In 1171, the original foundation was extended into a cruciform and rebuilt in stone by the Norman warrior Strongbow. The present structure dates mainly from the late 1800’s, when a huge restoration took place — the work done then remains controversial to this day, as much of the building’s old detail was destroyed in the process.
Still, magnificent stonework and graceful pointed arches survive. There’s also a statue of Strongbow inside, and some believe his tomb is here as well, although historians are not convinced. Look out for a heart-shaped iron box in the southeast chapel, which is believed to contain the heart of St. Laurence O’Toole. The best way to get a glimpse of what the original building must have been like is to visit the crypt, which is original to the 12th-century structure. The crypt houses many artifacts and items of religious significance to Ireland and the church.
The architecture in many of these cathedrals is astounding. The craftsmanship & intricacies in the work is remarkable. Amazing to see how well-preserved they are over such a period of time. Many may have dilapidated over time, but some of these grander places of worship really do have outstanding longevity. I did want to visit a few Jewish synagogues, but they would have been hard to visit on our limited time there. Maybe next time.
The day was rocking along nicely, nothing but great weather since we landed. Another few days where New Jersey was getting rained upon while our weather was great in Ireland. That is Irony for you. It made for such longer days to see more locations. We stayed hydrated throughout the day. There are a lot of convenience stores so grabbing a bottle and storing one in the backpack became protocol since London. With walking & warm, sunny weather comes drinking like a camel. You get thirsty, you get tired. Staying hydrated will at least keep your energy level up until you have food.
It appeared we were not done where we were located. As we walked out to the corner there was a sign for something called Dublinia. Dublinia shows you firsthand what it was like to live in Dublin at the time of the Vikings and in the middle ages up to the beginning 16th century. It is a highly interactive museum full of atmospheric 3-d displays and with many hands on activities for visitors. Dublinia is located in a part of Christ Church Cathedral, known as the Synod hall.
Dublinia features historical reenactment, with actors playing the roles of Vikings and Medieval Dubliners (in full costume) and encourages visitors to join in. It has recreations of Viking and Medieval era buildings (houses, etc) and street scenes. The exhibition was opened in 1993, and was redeveloped in 2010 at a cost of €2 million. The museum attracts over 125,000 visitors per annum.
Stroll through a medieval market and visit a rich merchant’s house. You can wear medieval clothes, throw rotten eggs and vegetables (well, soft plastic balls) at a criminal locked up in the pillories and try your luck at fun fair games. Or why not try on some medieval armour and find out what weight the knights actually had to carry around with them? After you survived the Middle Ages, delve deeper and experience life in the times of the Vikings. See for yourself how much space you had as a crew member on a Viking long ship, learn to write in Viking Runes and listen to long sagas recited by an elder while you are sitting around the camp fire.
We spoke with one of the minters of money firsthand. He educated us on who creates coins, how they were created, even a little example and souvenir for us. A lot of forgeries were out there. Easy to obtain the items in minting coins. This gentleman also previously worked in finance & insurance. Gina and I laughed as we did as well. So we spoke candidly for a bit. He told us he was English and his wife was American. Half the year they spend over there, the other half in Arizona. Made for an interesting conversation on modern finance and business.
The history contained really made Ireland a true place for groups to conquer. Many tried and in the end they are their own country. But the Vikings, Moors, and more left their mark over time. Witnessing their daily life and struggles on just making it day-to-day. The differences in the Viking period in Ireland compared to the Moors and others who fought for control over that country. So much groundwork was being laid to help those native to Ireland they would not realize it for a very long time. It also appeared they used moss as toilet paper thanks to their “outhouse exhibit”, complete with sounds effects.
Like any museum or attraction, they always end you off in the gift shop. We had two choices, to either leave or climb St. Michael’s Tower. This 17th century cut stone tower has great views over Dublin and the river from its top platform. There are signs pointing out the major landmarks you can see from here, weather permitting. The interior of the tower is quite impressive, with just a 96 step metal staircase snaking its way up and the lack of floors giving you full view of the majestic height of the structure. It’s a steep climb to get to the viewing platform. You don’t want to be suffering from vertigo here . The views are breathtaking though.
Dublinia was a very welcome find. It was a highlight of our time in Dublin. We had walked most of the morning and early afternoon through all of these exhibits and attractions, we finally decided to grab something to eat. As we walked closer to the Temple Bar area we decided to eat at, Temple Bar Pub. Yes, in Temple Bar there is a Temple Bar Pub. Makes perfect sense. Doesn’t it? Temple Bar was a large establishment. They had it all. Craft beers, great whiskey, huge food menu, a beer garden, live music, and so much more. There was rugby and Jai alai being watched on the TV’s. Can not expect less from an establishment who has been in operation for 160 years.
We grab a seat ringside to the action close by the garden. It was such a great day every part of the pub that was outside was busy. Every place you visit in Temple Bar you will find a lively, friendly crowd. As we get settled we order up two servings of Guinness. It does taste better the thirstier you are. It does go down smoother. By this time too in the day a certain bathroom break was needed. The Temple Bar Pub as well as The Anchor Pub in London are two restrooms that still have trough urinals in them. That is very old school. The last one’s I remember were at Fenway Park & the Sussex Country Fairgrounds. Made me smile both times.
It did take me a little time to decide on what I wanted. Once I opened the menu, I noticed they had over 100 sandwiches. Let me repeat that.
Over 100 sandwiches!
Hot sandwiches, cold sandwiches, triple-decker, vegetarian, open sandwiches, and closed sandwiches all made fresh to order. A choice of breads and condiments can be staggering. A sandwich aficionado like myself jumped at the opportunity to have one of these tasty delights. My eyes kept focusing on the roast beef, horseradish mayo, mixed greens, and cheddar cheese on brown bread. It did not disappoint at all. An ample sized sandwich, this freshly made beauty tasted perfectly. You could taste each ingredient almost separately, but add the horseradish mayo and it all blends beautifully. The brown bread held the sandwich just right so there was little mess. A bad sandwich can wind up on the plate more than the bread.
Great atmosphere, great lunch. The Temple bar had free wi-fi. A lot of the casual pub’s and restaurants had free wi-fi. Even outside certain locations one can find a wi-fi hotspot. I found a few on Grafton Street. Because of all the pictures and video I was taking with my phone my battery would get low early afternoon. I came prepared, I like to travel with a back up charger. The LowePro backpack I carry all of my camera equipment in has plenty of extra space for needed extras. Battery back up, remote control for picture-taking, and even a microphone and wire. Having a battery back up that is rechargeable and has ports for different devices & USB sizes is essential in traveling today.
We wandered back to Grafton Street. Gina ventured into a jewelry store to buy a wedding band similar to mine. We were in and out with a ring in less than ten minutes. We have them their easiest sale of the day. From there we went across the street to St. Stephens Green. I wide open public park with great shaded areas, ponds, trails, walkways, and a nice quiet, serene setting that made it pleasurable to enjoy. We stuck close to Grafton Street as we did enough walking. Well, not quite. Gino’s Gelato would be the last place we would walk to on Grafton Street. The long line into the middle of Grafton was worth it.
By now it had been a long day, out early and gathering historical knowledge on foot can wear you out. We headed back to the hotel to recharge ourselves, and our devices. The wind had picked up and it can blow. Made sense to put on a long sleeve for the evening. Just as we were getting comfortable it was time to get going. We attempted to retrace our footsteps to head back to Dame St. and the grand selection of restaurants. Even as we are walking with no specific direction, we are trying to decide on where to go. Remembering what there was left one place for me to try, Diwali Indian cuisine.
Diwali was rated “Best Indian Cuisine” the last two years in Ireland. I have never really had a true Indian meal before. Coworkers of my wife, my cousin RIsa, and a few others told us to have Indian while in England. Everyone says the Indian food is better in England than it is in India. Since we missed out in England, Ireland seemed to be the next best choice. I answered “yes” to Diwali on instinct. Time to step outside that proverbial box and taste some great Indian food. My taste buds will thank me.
And thank me they did. I wanted to have the cuisine the way one should. I liked the different sauces and curry’s that I had. The naan we started with made for a perfect starter. Light, fresh, and came in well with everything one could eat there. I usually like to go for a menu item that I notice fast and sticks with me the rest of the time I am viewing the menu. I kept coming back to the Everest Special Seafood Sizzler. A mix of Tandori King prawns, scallops, crab, mussels, and grilled fish served with vegetables in a sizzling hot plate. Naan and boiled rice to accompany the dish as well. My curry of choice was Ledo Bedo, a known Nepali curry.
From the minute I took my first bite I was hooked. Once again, the use of cilantro in the dish made me enjoy it even more. a great blend of flavors mixed with fresh seafood, nann, and the rice had me eating more than speaking. The ledo bedo curry was not too hot or spicy, it accentuated the fresh seafood well. Using the naan to move everything and gather every taste onto one torn piece of naan was the way to experience this dish. Between London and Ireland, the seafood has been spectacular. My first Indian cuisine experience will not be my last. I was savoring every bite of this meal. Some of my favorite memories are tied to “stepping outside the box” food moments. Every time to you step outside your box, it expands with each step.
Not only was the food experience excellent, but their service and attention to the customer. Those little extras from the staff goes a very long way. It makes that experience and memory even greater. Those little extras is what keeps us coming back. Like a drug, you want to have that great all around experience again. Not just for the taste, but for the interaction and service. We both received 10% discount cards for our next visit. From beginning to end, Diwali proved they are a stop for anyone wanting Indian cuisine in Dublin.
Another beautiful day closed out to another great sunset over Ireland. Tomorrow was going to be a busy day. A drinking busy kind of day. Now too far from the hotel is the Old Jameson Distillery set on the grounds of John Jameson’s original distillery from 1780. A little bit of a walk is the Guinness Storehouse where you can tour the brewing process, history, and even learn how to pour the perfect Guinness pint. We had a nice long day ahead of us. Well, every day has been long. So this was no different actually.
Trying to fall asleep some nights was hard. I wanted to experience every moment, even if it was watching bar TV programming in the evening. There were some great comedy specials on after 10:30 PM a few nights. One special to raise funds for a children;s hospital had Russell Brand and Rich Hall. Yes, THAT Rich Hall from Saturday Night Live and Not Necessarily The News Sniglets fame. Watching shows like this and Hell’s Kitchen in Europe is a new experience considering there are no bleeps over expletives. So every F word & a few others that get bleeped in America come through there just clearly. Hearing Gordon Ramsay insult the chef’s with no filter is all the entertainment I need.
As morning comes, anticipation of the day ahead reminded me of an 8 year old waiting for their first trip to Disney. Adult themed recreational amusement parks is more like it. Many different adult theme parks around the world, we decided on a few drinking versions. Another great morning start with the hotel’s breakfast. Coffee, orange juice, smoked salmon on artesian bread, scrambled eggs, bacon, sausage, and small potatoes should be enough to handle the first wave of alcohol consumed at the Old Jameson Distillery .
This distillery was the only attraction we visited on our side of the river in Dublin. We had to walk past the Four Courts and rows and rows of defenders and litagators. The Four Courts is Ireland’s main courts building, located on Inns Quay in Dublin. The Four Courts are the location of the Supreme Court, the High Court and the Dublin Circuit Court. Until 2010 the building also housed the Central Criminal Court.
As you come down a cobble stone street, you walk through the old distillery main gate to a small courtyard and the entrance to the Jameson Whiskey Experience. Bar, gift shop, and complete with a tour of how Jameson Irish whiskey started and perfected their craft of triple distilled whiskey. At the end of the tour was a tasting of Jameson. It was about 25 minutes until the next tour, so a little waiting ensued.
The bar and outer waiting area was set on top the foundation of where the old holding casks were set. It looked like an archeological excavation underneath. It reminds me of being able to look under the Lincoln Memorial in Washington, D.C.. Some great photo opportunities while waiting. Also waiting for the tour was a German tour group who also happened to be a barbershop singing group. As a surprise to all, they broke out and sang “My Wild Irish Rose” while waiting. Touching performance enjoyed by all.
The tour begins with a small film following an early 1800’s New York newspaper reporter as he is invied by John Jameson to tour the facility and learn first hand what makes Jameson Whiskey the premier whisky that it is. He shows up a little late, starting his tour with another employee. As they tour the facilities, you follow and gain the same knowledge. By the time they get to the end of the whiskey making process, the tasting, he finally meets John Jameson. The worker who gave him the tour, was John Jameson, Jr.. From there it was on to the walking tour portion of the experience.
Our tour guide Meghan snaked us through a recreation of the distillery from the time period we just watched. We were informed Mr. Jameson was a man of punctuality. The employee who arrived late would be lowered into the distilling vats with a candle to check the carbon dioxide levels. A job no one wanted to perform. If the candle went out, you had to come up. From the video and tour, we all got the feeling John Jameson expected the best , in the work from his employees and the whiskey he put out.
Jameson also set himself apart by using a triple distilling method. By distilling his whiskey three times, it takes out most of the strong, alcohol taste to leave a smoother, robust flavor to produce a finer product. Scotch whiskey uses a double distilling process while American distillers of whiskey like Jack Daniels use a single distilling method. If you are a Scotch or whiskey drinker you understand the differences in texture, flavor, and taste. One could compare it to comparing wines from different regions.
Mid way through the tour our guide was picking eight people to be involved with a taste test of three brands of whiskey. Everyone else on the tour would only try Jameson. When she was looking for four female, I pointed right to Gina even though she had her hand raised. She nabbed an opportunity. When it came time for the guys, I was right on board with my chance to have some free tasting. We held onto these Jameson cardboard like batons until the end of the tour.
As we approached the tasting portion at the end, those chosen for the taste test sat at a table with three samples in front of them. A triple distilled sample of Jameson, a double distilled sample of Johnnie Walker, and a single distilled sample of Jack Daniels. The Jameson was so smooth with a nice smoky taste it made a big impression with me. I have been a Jack Daniels drinker since college, I had it instead of beer. I was an expensive drinker right off the bat. The Jameson won we over from Jack and provided me a finer whiskey experience.
Once again like any tour, ride, or park attraction they leave you in the gift shop. This one was worth shopping in. A few nice items had to be purchased. A couple of shirts, a shot glass, and an 18-year-old bottle of Jameson distilled and bottled exclusively for that store. Had to pack that bottle like a baby to get it home. We are waiting for the right moment to open the bottle to enjoy this one of a kind taste. From there we had to head back to The Morrison to put our new wares in the room before proceeding to the Guinness Storehouse.
We cross the river to Bridge St. which takes you right to Christ Church Cathedral and Dublinia. Such an easier walk than the day prior if we had started from our hotel. Which we did not. A passing military amphibious vehicle that was now a tour bus had a young, raucous crowd. They were learning about Dublinia and the tour guide had them all yell out like vikings while wearing viking helmets. This tour group even had vehicles in London. It appeared they really know how to make a tour entertaining and interactive.
As we were looking for the entrance to Guinness, we passed these immense storehouse structures. The size of the gates compared to the structures made everyone look like ants. Apparently, the entrance was not at the corner of Crate & Barrel. No applause, please. I spared you all from the bad jokes so far.
Gina and I set out on a magical journey deep into the heart of the world famous Guinness brand and company. The building is central to Dublin’s and Ireland’s heritage, and has been continually updated to create a blend of fascinating industrial tradition with a contemporary edge. The seven floors bring to life the rich heritage of Guinness, telling the story from its origins there at St. James’s Gate in Dublin to its growth as a global brand. From the company store at the bottom to The Gravity Bar at the top, Guinness provided free wi-fi.
The experience starts by standing at the bottom of the world’s largest pint glass, which rises up through the center of the building. If full, the giant pint glass atrium would hold 14.3 million pints of Guinness. We started off with the walking tour of the brewing process all the way to cooperage and carting of the product. Exhibits on the history of Guinness advertising from print to TV was featured. The way products are advertised has dramatically changed over the decades. The early days of television and radio did not have restrictions on content and language as they do now. Some great photo opportunities in every part of the facility.
Everyone wanted to learn how to pour the perfect pint of Guinness. And why not? You get to drink the fruits of your labor at the end of this one. The small tasting they give you at the end of the walking tour is not enough to satisfy the thirsty Guinness drinker. At least you get a full fresh pint of Guinness. We and a few others stand around a bar to learn the art of “the pour”. How to hold the glass, the angle of the glass, time of the first pour, hen let it sit after filling 80% of the way. After the small rest, time to finish off the pint by filling it to the top. Let sit one last time, then enjoy!
Enjoy we did. From there we could take the elevator up to the Gravity Bar at the top. When you reach Gravity Bar you have truly reached the top of the world. They invite you to sit, relax and enjoy your perfect pint while taking in the breath-taking panoramic 360° views of Dublin city and beyond. While here you can truly immerse yourself in the fun that is Guinness. If you would also like to feel what it is like to be amongst an international bat crowd, then stay a little longer. Some who came to the Storehouse treated the Gravity Bar as the only stop in the entire facility. It made wanting to be up there a quick experience.
I could spend more time talking about the Guinness experience, maybe for another time. Many things to see, taste, and buy. On our way back we passed by a few notable areas. One was a stone marker right on Thomas Street that read “In the roadway opposite this tablet, Robert Emmet dies in the cause of Irish Freedom on the 20th of September, 1803”. The stone was placed there in 1853 by the Thomas Moore Society. This other notable area was a stone wall by a modern building on the sidewalk. This wall portion looked like it was a part of a larger fortification due to its proximity to Christ Church.
After a few shots of Jameson and some Guinness it was finally time to get some dinner. We needed to drop off more plunder back at the hotel before heading out for the night. Considering this was our last night in Ireland, we both had the same place in mind for dinner. Gogarty’s. We started our culinary experience there in Dublin, it was only fair we finish up there. We had good reason to and not just because of the atmosphere. Many of the pub menu’s and restaurants had a seafood chowder on the menu. We were on a mission to try their’s.
By the time we arrive at Gogarty’s, the main room is packed. We opted to sit in their bar/restaurant section in the back. Very spacious. They even had seating outside and upstairs. We would rather be closer to the live music but we had a table, which was more important. To start we both did have the seafood chowder. A hearty chowder, this red tomato based soup has a little kick to it. Combine that with mussels, clams, fresh fish, and every other item thrown in made this chowder worth waiting for. Half the bowl was filled with seafood. I wish I ordered ten bowls of the soup.
On the Specials menu I saw this lamb steak just staring at me, waiting to be ordered. A well portioned, tender lamb steak came trimmed & skewered on two kabob sticks. Along with fresh vegetables and homemade mashed potatoes this was a true foodie way to end the trip in Dublin. Combine this meal with a few Guinness’ and it was a great Irish feast. We just sat back at savored this meal. The seafood chowder was a true highlight. Lamb is great when it can be picked and eaten right off the bone.
The next day we were leaving Ireland and flying to Edinburgh, Scotland for the final leg of this journey. We wish we could have stayed to listen to some more music and a few more pints, but we had packing to do. I was happy in knowing that I left enough room in my second carry on for the swag we would be bringing home. The Jameson bottle had to go into my checked bag though. The factory store packed it for travel and I packed it amongst some sweatshirts and other clothing.
The anticipation of flying out to Scotland and not home provided a continued sense of excitement. While waiting at the gate in Heathrow for our flight to Dublin I kept glancing up at the screen. Knowing you are ready to board a flight that will take you to another new destination is a great sensation. I was getting that same feeling again the night before leaving for Edinburgh. Had to tell if it was the night before. After 10 PM and it was still light outside.
As morning came, so did some rain. A light drizzle was what waited for us outside. We knew the beautiful weather could not last. It lasted long enough for us to enjoy it. Speaking of enjoyment, same could be said about one more stop at the hotel’s buffet. Get fueled up as we would not be eating again until much later in the day. My taste buds miss the food from Ireland. We would stay at The Morrison again. great location, food, and ambiance.
Not too long after breakfast our taxi to the airport arrived. His route back to the airport went though a section of the city behind our hotel we did not explore. Something to do when we decide to go back. I still had Scotland to look forward to. I will save the story about the plane we had to take over to Scotland. A nice little moment that will go well with the food and excitement we had in Scotland.
A few months ago my wife Gina had expressed interest in traveling overseas. I looked at her with a little hesitation. Why? It was a trip I had thought about, but not recently. It took me a few seconds to blurt out “OK”. Not knowing what we were in for it was one o f the best decisions and vacations either of us had ever had.
After all the planning and decisions, we decided to visit three countries. We would start off in London, England then make our way to Dublin, Ireland with our final stop being Edinburgh, Scotland. The entire trip, from airfare to hotel accommodations was done through Booking.com. A very seemless trip. What a crazy 11-12 days it was. But the fun and education never stopped. It was very surreal. One always wants to travel abroad and when that opportunity presents itself, it can still feel surreal.
We knew there would be so much to see. Considering we spent about 3-4 days in each country, we limited ourselves to the main city we were in as there was so much to do without traveling outside city limits. there could be a full immersion into being local without trying to look like a tourist, which one can pick out most easily. Even though we had a map out and taking pictures, we carried ourselves in a manner than was unassuming.
We were not loud, being inconsiderate of others, or acting like we were the only ones in the area. When you travel to another country, you are a representative of your country. You want to be respectable of others and show that not all Americans are as bad as other countries think. Why give people a reason to speak negatively about Americans unless you give them a reason to? We were casual and civilized, blending into the local culture and enjoying each day as it comes.
To me, one of the best aspects of international travel is the food. Being able to try certain foods in that cuisines origin, prepared by the locals who know how to prepare it right. One has to leave their comfort zone to truly immerse the taste buds during an international vacation to really enjoy it. It’s a great chance to take culinary chances with cuisine you would not normally try. If you find chain restaurants, you will never have a true experience. You can have great choices in a country where they prepare it the best with the proper ingredients
Once you indulge all your senses in a foreign country can one truly understand what an experience it is to be there. Not sure from what you can see, hear, and touch. But the smells and tastes of such great food that begs to be tried by foreigners. It is OK to test the waters with a foot, but always best to dive right in and immerse yourself fully. No regrets.
Keeping in mind that England and the rest of the UK is five hours ahead, we decided to leave at night and arrive early the next morning. It gave us more time that first day rather than flying in later. After being picked up at the airport and settling into our hotel, there was only one thing on our mind.
Technically, we had not eaten since the day before so a meal was something we needed. After receiving directions from the concierge we walked to The Strand across the Waterloo Bridge, several blocks of local businesses, pubs, and restaurants. After walking up and down the street we settled on Garfunkel’s (http://www.garfunkels.co.uk), a chain that offers great breakfast, sandwiches, and other fare.
They have a great menu, lot of great choices. I did not want anything too big so I ordered their chicken club sandwich. I wanted more protein that carbs. This sandwich was huge. Packed with grilled chicken breast, bacon, egg, tomato, lettuce and mayonnaise on white toast. Served with cole slaw and chips as well. The chips are done right in the UK. Thick cut and friend to a nice crisp without overkill. The way chips should be done.
The sandwich was filling, but not quite enough as Gina ordered sticky toffee Pudding. Delicious toffee sponge, drenched in sweet sticky toffee sauce topped with vanilla ice cream. What decadence. We had to share this delight. As much as we shared, we did not finish it off. We could have finished a few of them.
From there we walked along South Bank, a walking section along the River Thames showcasing a younger, artsy side of London. A lot of restaurants, art exhibits, skateboarders, and tourists out to see the views from the river. London Eye and the Aquarium is right at the beginning and just across the bridge from these locations is Big Ben, Parliament, Westminster Abbey, and other local attractions. We managed to set ourselves up in a great central location.
We scouted out some of the restaurants along South Bank. Aside from some club style outdoor bars and a few cafe style eateries/bars there were some trendy restaurants. Strada offered Tuscan style Italian cooking while Giraffe was a fusion of different world cuisines. In between these was Yo! Sushi which I will get into later, and a few other trendy spots. It really set itself apart from the traditional pub scene.
South Bank seemed to be a hot spot for an evening crowd. It doesn’t matter the crowd you travel with, all are welcome the same. Even tourists. It is easy to relax and just be casual with so many strangers. Maybe small chit-chat once in a while for a good laugh can happen. No stress to be had.
The second day we knew we needed a good breakfast to start the day off right. We headed back to South Bank and remembered a small cafe style restaurant under the Waterloo Bridge. They had a short menu for breakfast. Some sandwiches, pastries, and breads. We headed to the left side where a kitchen and menus were. We were then told that breakfast was ordered at the bar. Yes, the bar. It seemed the bar handled breakfast. They did have the coffee over there so I guess it makes sense.
Gina headed over to the bar and ordered our breakfast. She had scrambled eggs on toast and I have English sausage on toast. It had a nice deep, spicy flavor. Not the kind of sausage we have for breakfast over here. The second half Gina and I traded a little to have an egg and sausage sandwich. Plus, one needs to order Coffee Americano if they want an American style coffee/ Otherwise it is all lattes, cappuccino, espresso, etc. Americao White to order with milk.
From there we walked back around South Bank to cross the Westminster Bridge to get to our first stop, Westminster Abbey. One has to pass Big Ben and Parliament in order to get there. “Kids, look! Big Ben, Parliament!”. We were walking so there was no need for us to keep left. Even walking by it I was still in awe of being there. But once we entered Westminster Abbey, my facial expressions spoke the majority of my awe.
Only one day prior to us stepping foot in Westminster Abbey they were celebrating Queen Elizabeth II’s 60 years on the throne. To see all the royalty from Kings, Queens, Lords, Dukes, and so much more that were a part of the British Crown was amazing. Not just their final resting place or memorial, but the Latin inscriptions and craftsmanship of it all. Even American’s like Ben Franklin and Franklin Delano Roosevelt had memorials there. Yes, as time passed they paid tribute and have memorials set up for certain Americans.
I was soaking in all the history, reading the ages & stories of those immortalized there, grasping the scale of how much England covered throughout history. Even if it was a church, it was still a spectacle for this American Jew. When I got back and talked about seeing history that was older than our country, I mainly got “You should visit Israel”. Sorry, but there are other countries and history I would prefer to see first. I have others I’d prefer to get to first. A visit to Israel will come eventually.
The highlight for me at Westminster Abbey was seeing memorials and resting places for some of history’s greatest writers and poets. Names like Charles Dickens, T.S. Elliott, Lewis Carroll, Lord Byron, Alfred Lord Tennyson, Edward Lear, Jane Austin, Rudyard Kipling, Robert Browning, and one of the greatest, Geoffrey Chaucer. You could even see and touch Chaucer’s final resting place. For an aspiring writer, it was a moment to remember for eternity. I love Chaucer’s work.
Many critics, friends, and others gave a thumbs down to the movie “A Knight’s Tale” due to its use of current rock music, modern trendy sense, and countless other no-no’s. I loved the film for Paul Bettany’s portrayal of Geoffrey Chaucer. His part was written superbly. His comedic timing and demeanour added to the great lines scripted for him. Showing the pitfalls of a writer’s vices to his greatest moments giving introductions to the masses, Bettany gave the viewer a true perspective on how this writer may have lived. Scenes of the movie were going through my head standing next to Chaucer’s tomb.
After taking in all the history Westminster Abbey had for us we ventured right over to Buckingham Castle. There are maps on certain corners mapping out the nearest sights & tourists destinations. We followed them for a bit and there stood before us the residence of the Queen. One watches events on TV or sees it in film, but that is nothing compared to seeing it up close. Well, at least from the gate like everyone. Staring in, we gawkers are at least hoping to catch some glimpse of what goes on there. Speculation says she Queens… and vacuums.
So I watched National Lampoons European Vacation a few hundred times. Yes, I did think of the movie at certain spots in London. Yes, I did bring a Walley World T-shirt with me over to London. No, I could not find nor did we stay in the Royal Imperial Windsor Arms. There is a little Clark Griswold in all of us. Just have yet to see Christie Brinkley pull up next to me. But I digress.
We hung out at the gates and statue across from the Castle for a bit, planning our next move. We had great weather the entire time in London as New Jersey was being soaked on, imagine that. Staying hydrated was a priority as in addition to heat, was all our walking. So as we headed down The Mall with St. James Park to the right of us. Was a nice brisk walk with some lush gardens and trees surrounding us.
By the end of the road we had gotten to Trafalgar Square and rested up at Pret A Manager. A great little cafe serving fresh sandwiches, coffee, tea, and other pastries and cold beverages. Plus, they have free wi-fi. They are a chain with locations in the United States, definitely worth a visit. Trust me, go in. Hooking into these little chain’s wi-fi hotspots makes it a little easier to get around and still be “social media engaged”.
Right up a few roads was Piccadilly Circus. A mecca for shopping in London. Regent Street seemed to have everyone. From Michael Koors and Burberry to Calvin Klein and Coach. Tons of great shops lined the street and adjacent ones. Even a Whole Foods is right off Regent Street. Yes, one will find the typical tourist merchandise stores, but for those wanting a true piece of fashion in London might spend a little more.
All we did was window shop and walk into a few stores. My wife’s sister asked her to go to Burberry for a small wallet, saying it should not be expensive. Uh, we were not quite sure what she considered “inexpensive” as one of their most inexpensive ones was about $280 in American dollars. Well, we just looked at each other, laughed, then walked out. Very nice shop and some great merchandise, just not what we were looking to pay for anything at that point.
We even found London’s Chinatown. A lot of great menus posted by many different Asian cushiness. They were all represented in some fashion from one restaurant to the other. It did not matter what you were in the mood for, someone was bound to have it. Even the green tea cakes looks inviting. As if to say “finish me now”. We then looked at the time and thought we should head back and see where we wanted to have dinner.
We decided to head back to South Bank. Some great places were less than half a mile from our hotel so they were in an optimal location. We decided on Giraffe (www.giraffe.net). Having linking issues. Giraffe is about exploring the wonderful foods from around the globe and opening our ears to music from around the world. The atmosphere is casual & relaxed. Some great fusion concepts amongst steaks, great pastas, sandwiches, and burgers. A lot of great choices.
Giraffe is operated by the original founders Juliette and Russel Joffe and Andrew Jacobs who all have an active role in the day to day management of the business. Giraffe was acquired in March 2013 by Tesco as part of its strategy to utilize some of the space in their larger stores, creating retail destinations that offer customers, in particular families, a compelling experience outside of their weekly shopping trip.
So to start, I had the Orange BBQ Duck Tostada. A crisp corn tortilla topped with sticky orange pepper bbq duck, shredded salad & fresh red chili. The duck was so tender and just kind of melted as you ate it. A great starter that is light and gives you a taste of duck if you never had it before. I love duck and so many other types of game. While over the length of the trip, I only had red meat 2-3 times.
As my main meal I ordered the Chili Beef Enchiladas. Two small oven baked corn tortillas stuffed with chilli beef & herby rice, topped with adobe sauce, melting cheese, tomato salsa & toasted seeds. served with a chopped seasonal salad. More like a forest. Ingredients so fresh and not an overpowering spice. Just enough to make sure one tastes the cilantro, one of my top favorite ingredients in any cuisine. I could have eaten more, but then there would be no room for desert.
Chocolate Mousse Crunch made the perfect ending to a great meal. Rich milk chocolate mousse topped with crushed cookies & cream. Just enough in a martini glass. Velvety smooth and rich. I would have loved to have had a few dozen more, but then I would be walking out the door like John Candy in The Great Outdoors. We had enough. Another great day with tomorrow to look forward to.
On our third day we decided on Tower Bridge and the Tower of London as our focal point for the day. So one of the best decisions we have to make comes up. What should we have for breakfast. A great choice was made, back to Garfunkel’s. They had some great breakfast options on a fixed price menu.
English breakfast can be very heavy in meats and puddings, but not the traditional American style pudding. The day before at Garfunkel’s we noticed they had great options for breakfast. If it isn’t broke, don’t fix it. Plus Garfunkel’s has free wi-fi, which comes in handy so one does not incur a ton of roaming charges just to be able to post to Twitter, Foursquare, and Facebook. In less than two days of roaming I incurred an extra $100 in data roaming alone. I turned it off and acted on wi-fi hotspots.
I went with two friend eggs, thick cut bacon, and baked beans. A couple nice thick slices of brown bread accompanied the meal. I liked this option for the protein content in relation to carbs in the meal. With the walking we knew we were going to do, energy was needed to fuel us for a good part of the day. No need for a half plate of home fries, not running a marathon. Give me the beans before home fries for any breakfast.
Their coffee was some of the best we had over there. One has to order “coffee Americano” in order to get a traditional American style coffee. Garfunkel’s delivered. They present a traditional British style cuisine in a New York street side restaurant setting. Great traditional fare served fresh and delicious, with some American twists. From what I hear, their Tower Burger is the item of choice amongst many. Maybe next time.
Back over the Waterloo Bridge and onto Tower Path. A walkway along the River Thames marked to make ones journey easier. It was a great morning for a long walk. We came across some artists with easels capturing a building dome and surroundings as their item for art. I snapped off a couple of shots and we went along our way. Everything from apartments and Starbucks to businesses & restaurants. We walked along so much on this path, even a prison.
Clink Prison. A name given to all the prisons that have stood on a number of sites in that vicinity. The first prison in 1127 was a cellar in the Palace of the Bishop of Winchester, and the last was in Deadman’s Place (Park Street). The prison held Protestant and Catholic religious martyrs at various times. It was closed in 1780, when it was burned by the anti-Catholic Gordon rioters.
After another small distance was the dock and port for the final vessel of Sir Francis Duke. A 16th century explorer, privateer, and English national hero has inspired countless generations across the world. He was the first English Captain to circumnavigate the globe and played a vital role in the defense of England against the Spanish Armada in 1588. He helped to lead England in becoming a Naval superpower of the time.
We could not go far without finding something historic. Then came The Anchor Bankside. I great old Pub first established in 1822. We kept this place in the back of our minds for later. The closer we walked to Tower Bridge the more mesmerized we were. It is one thing to see places in books and on film, but in person in finally clicks. That moment when you say “Holy Shit, I’m here”. Every traveler has this moment when they are in the presence of something grand they never thought would be as close as their breath.
Tower Bridge is a sight. One can not walk a few feet without someone taking a picture. I snapped off my share and blended right in. The craftsman ship and detail makes it appealing to the eye. To see the history carved into different parts of the structure. Very long walk to get to this point, but it was worth the distance. There was a boat from the London Eye that could have taken us down there. But we prefer to walk and see the eights along the way rather than just passing them on a boat. Great day for cardio anyway.
As soon as you get over the bridge is the Tower of London. Also there are the White Tower and other museums to spotlight the surrounding uses and military. The uses of the Tower and structure were used to house royalty in periods of war. Like a typical castle, there is a moat, dungeon, and jewels. The museums are designed to showcase different periods and its history. Showcasing different armors, weapons, clothing, and their background stories told great detail of what it would have been like in those times.
Every museum over there has their relics, World War I and II pieces along with their respective country’s history. They are educational to go through. Even detailing prison life on POW’s and even royals. So to never be heard from again. If it was not for England, the United States of America would not have happened. In a way, if not for them, we would not be here. Debate all you want, this is my opinion and I am sticking to it. Pilgrims and others came here, but if not for the Colonies, no USA. It does not take away from walking inside those castles and along the castle walls.
The Crown Jewels and other royal pieces were a highlight. How often does one get to see ornate jewels, crowns, scepter’s, diamond encrusted swords, and more bling that would make P Diddy look like a chump. Their bling has bling. Even the dinner plates, silverware, goblets, and serving dishes were made out of gold. No way to top that Jay-Z.
There was the rightly named Bloody Tower, one could walk along the East Wall facing the Thames River and Tower Bridge. Great view and breeze on a perfect day there. The history of reigns and regimes as well as their military strategies, weapons, and defenses was fascinating to learn.
I am just here to give you the highlights, folks! I am not going to go into full on details as to what was at every castle location. I am not a history professor. I did learn a lesson or two every day though. The best education can come right from a source. Museums are great places for history and education.
After several hours we decide to head on back, but we had to make a stop first. We stopped off at The Anchor for some fish & chips. Every bar in The Anchor was made of old, dark wood. Great in stature and attention to detail, every room appears frozen in time. Many famous Englishmen have walked through their doors for close to 200 years. We had to make this a stop for now just the fish & chips, but some beer.
Gina ordered a Guinness and after looking at their menu I ordered a Kronenbourg 1664. Smooth, full-bodied Kronenbourg went down nice. I was drinking, taking pride in knowing the alcohol content is higher over seas. So this brew was a delight. American beer is like having sex in a canoe, it’s f#%#*ing close to water. After two beers I was feeling quite happy. A great feeling came over me and just relaxed. Why go anywhere? Sit back and enjoy.
We ordered The Codfather off their menu. The Codfather was their largest fish & chips dish. A huge deep friend piece of cod and perfectly prepared chip. The fish was crisp & crunchy outside, and tender & succulent inside. The fish melted in your mouth. The chips were perfect. Thick cut, crisp outside, and fluffy interior. I love their chips. I have an Achilles heel for french fries/chips. A great lunch with a great view from their outside portion. Worth a stop on the way to the sights.
Enjoying a nice stroll back to the hotel for some rest, we talked about where we should have dinner. Gina’s first choice was Strada. Strada is a group of contemporary styled restaurants dedicated to providing authentic Italian dishes that offer a true taste of Italy.Strada is all about great quality, freshly prepared pizzas, pastas and risotto served in stylish, contemporary surroundings. Another great menu we viewed earlier.
After some much-needed rest at the hotel we ventured right over to Strada. We walk by a small section that seems to cater to street performers. A fire-breathing tube player, acrobats, mimes, and more in our way everyday. They can be very entertaining. It’s not like New York City where they are really in your face. These performers just sit back, do their thing, and engage the crowd intelligently. Some can be fun to watch.
We had to wait on a small line at Strada as it appears it is a well liked place. Ever restaurant along South Bank has tables outside as well as inside, and outside was jam-packed. So we headed inside, no big deal. Very young, trendy crowd. Majority of the younger workforce carry backpacks, they are everywhere. That made it easier for me to take mine everywhere and fit in at every restaurant we went to. I did not feel like a tourist in that fashion. When everyone has one, the more you can just fit right in.
Had to get a long look at the menu to find something different to try. From what I saw on the menu, there would be a lot I would enjoy. I am not a fan of big pasta dishes or a smothering or red sauce over a good protein dish. Considering this is authentic Italian and not American inspired Italian, I figured I was safe from all that. Judging by the dishes that passed us, I was.
My starter of choice was the Zuppa Vongole. Their signature Sardinian soup with fresh clams, fregola pasta, white wine, red chili and parsley. A great spice that you felt in the mouth, not the tongue. The clams, still in their shell, gave the soup a sweet taste of the sea. A fitting way to showcase the seafood without taking away from the soup’s flavor.
Time for the main course, Risotto Frutti Di Mare. A terrific seafood risotto. A rich seafood risotto of mussels, clams, king prawns and squid with tomatoes, chili, white wine, parsley and garlic. The mark of any great restaurant is their risotto. Once again, Strada delivered on a fantastic seafood dish. Succulent king prawns, mussels and clams with their shells on so one can really taste the white wine and garlic in the dish. One of those dishes where the less you say, the better the dish is.
So far we had not been disappointed in any place we have chosen to eat. Everything we had decided to do in London, weather it be sightseeing or food, had been excellent to that point. Even the weather was perfect since we arrived. Can not plan that right, even if you try. The hotel room though, not so much. The pillows made it hard to sleep as they were too soft. The bathroom was in the middle of the room and took up much of the room. The wi-fi could not be access anywhere in the room but the small living area with sofa by the front door. Other than that, great hotel that is centrally located to a lot of attractions and restaurants.
Before we left on our trip, I purchased the Lowepro Photo Hatchback 16L AW. A great everyday pack for photography. Enough room for a camera, two lenses, and accessories. The camera and lenses compartment is against ones back so no one can enter that compartment while walking. A top section is big enough for an extras one needs to carry. Two side pockets for water, a Joby, or any tall item. I highly recommend this backpack for any photographer traveling.
Our fourth and final day we decided to have breakfast at the hotel. They offer a breakfast buffet with includes eggs, breakfast meats, pastries, breads, and what any basic buffet would have. It was OK at best. The bacon was dry, the coffee tasted like it was filtered through a sock, and the whole breakfast was disappointing. Neither of us really wanted more. I can not really go into detail about a buffet I am not crazy about. There are better ones I can discuss later. Next stop, Harrod’s Department Store.
Harrod’s was a bit father than we thought, so walking would take too long. So we opted for the taxi. Driving in the UK takes learning. The streets are narrow, they drive on the other side of the street, one can make U-turns anywhere, you can park on either side of the street regardless which way you are facing, and other items one would need sharp reflexes for. It was fun getting there in the taxi. The only thing our driver did not do was run red lights.
Harrod’s is a store unlike many shoppers have stepped foot into. One could easily spend an entire day there and possibly not see everything. They have everything and i mean EVERYTHING. Jewelry, Men’s fashions, women’s fashions, kids fashion’s, exercise equipment, a toy store, electronics, an art gallery, a pen section, a fresh market, cafe’s, watches, a book store, kitchen appliances, bedding, full coffee and tea section, computers, cameras, and so many other areas Fifth Avenue is jealous. If you think going to Garden State Plaza or Mall of America might be a shoppers paradise, head to Harrod’s.
Where does one begin. We started in the market and went anywhere we saw food. Gina and I looked at each other wondering how much room we had in our carry on luggage. But alas, we knew we needed to be selective on what to bring back. The rest can be ordered on line. We purchased their tea and coffee. Their house blend is excellent. So much to try and smell, but not enough time to try it all. Even a couple small restaurants right off their market. From there we started at the top and worked our way down.
They had a nice book area. A Bond on Bond 007 book piqued my interest enough to purchase. Off the book area was their art gallery. Some very intriguing sculptures and still art. My focus was on some of the Andy Warhol pieces that hung in the gallery. The use of James Dean and Theodore Roosevelt with such vibrant color were captivating. A piece not by Warhol of Courtney Love holding Kurt Cobain in her arms was a little disturbing. A few of the sculptures did stand out to me and gave me questions to ponder over. They left you questioning their intent or message.
From there the order of departments is kind of a blur. You go from one concentrated section to the other and back again, you can wind up in the same section a few times. One needs a Wonkavator to truly handle all the department’s at Harrod’s. A great selection of cardio equipment, weights, and other various fitness machines were available to anyone looking to install a home gym. Some pieces I wish NYSC had. The toy store area had their Disney department, super heroes, Lego, Playmobil, Star wars, Spider Man, and everything else to occupy your child while you shop away everywhere else. They had quite a selection.
The men’s and women’s fashion departments had all the top designers. I am not about to ramble them off, visit Harrod’s website for that info. The prices are what you expect, so we keep walking. Not too much of a difference in some areas and higher in others. The women’s accessories, handbags, and other female targeted sections had every single designer a fashion conscious woman could want. Department areas that sold handbags had guards in them. Not just the jewelry areas, handbags too.
Like a good husband I waited at the right times in those areas. This way nothing could be said when I wanted to take a little more time in the electronics and camera set ions. Needed to look at the items I want and can’t afford. Window shopping, man style. We walk about the electronics and entertainment section the same way an eight year old looks at ice cream. My wife found a brand of stockings she loved so much, she went on-line to order more. We were selective with purchases albeit could have been much worse.
So many items, so little baggage space. We were very conservative in our shopping. It was getting late enough to where we wanted lunch. In one of the food halls was Galvin Demoiselle. Galvin Demoiselle opened in March 2012, and is situated in Harrods striking fruit, vegetable and pantry food hall on the ground floor. This bijou bistro offers quality French cuisine combined with Galvin’s warm, friendly hospitality in a unique, elevated location, overlooking the bustle of the food hall.
Ideal for shoppers looking for light dishes and refreshments, Chris and Jeff Galvin have created a menu including Soupe du Jour, charcuterie, Cocottes, salads and light fish dishes, plus their popular signature dishes of apple tarte tatin and confit of duck, and vegetarian options. The menu also offers a selection of cakes and the Demoiselle afternoon tea. They have two star Michelin rating chefs taking care of the food.
After a small wait we were seated in a tight seating area. Matter of fact, the entire restaurant seating was just as packed. The bistro was not designed for all day tea sipping. Considering where our lunch was located we decided to see how far out of the box we can find something fantastic on this menu. Gina decided on the Baked Lobster Fishake while I chose the Crisp Duck Leg Confit. Neither of us made a bad decision.
My duck leg was cooked perfectly, trimmed delicately, and tasted heavenly. Just the way duck should be. The dish was a perfect example of how duck should be prepared. Gina was loving the lobster. I tried a piece and it was divine.
We had a little laugh enjoying it all. Taking in the moment of realizing where we were. Enjoying a meal in a restaurant, in a store, in a city I still find myself amazed to be in. I was playing “Once in A Lifetime” by the Talking Heads over and over. David Byrne singing “How did I get here”? One of the best meals I had indulged in, in a very long time. It capped off a perfect time at Harrod’s. Well, not exactly perfect. I would have preferred walking out like a Lotto winner. Extra cars in tow.
Outside were a line of taxi’s, just waiting. Very easy to get a cab. The driver needed to do a U-turn, so right then and there, he did. We were laughing to ourselves at a legal, brazen U-turn in the middle of a main street. No accidents, no crashes, no fights, and no yelling. He turned and off we went as did everyone else. The roads are tight enough, last thing anyone wants is an accident. Fast decisions and patience is needed to drive in England. The driving attitude one has here can not be used in another country. You have to see how it works first and decide if it is worth the hassle.
After drooping our plunder off at the hotel we decided to take a shorter route to Trafalgar Square. A great open center for everyone to enjoy. At the base of the main statue were four lions. We decided to do as best as we can to get a picture with them. I succeeded in the climb. It was a good feeling being up there. Besides to sit and look around, not much else was going on. So we headed right back to Piccadilly Circus. After a couple turns, we ended up at the M&M’s store, and more free wi-fi.
We have been to the M&M’s stores in Las Vegas and New York City. They all have the same set up geared to the city they are in. They had the M&M’s in a “Walk on Abbey Road” piece in the store. plus each M&M character was depicted in a British style. It was fun to see how they were positioned. We still believe the Las Vegas location is the best as it also has a Coke store side. Always the best part is the create your own blend of M&M’s. Just put your mouth under and pull.
We just walked about to see more stores from there. One was a huge tourist store in the heart of Piccadilly Circus, Cool Britannia . To quote Queen “they have it all”. From T-shirts, pens, and posters to luggage, beer glasses and iPhone cases. A whirlwind of merchandise and chachkies surrounded us. If you really needed Union Jack underwear, they had it. Any “Keep Calm” item you could ever want. Did someone say “Do they have any Beatles items”? Why yes they do! Not into a lot of it, but an item or two did find its way out of the store with us.
It was getting to be that time for dinner. The first place I blurted out was Yo! Sushi. What is Yo! Sushi you say? Well then, let me explain. Yo! Sushi brings the use of a conveyor belt into the equation to ge sushi to customers. You have a seat either bar style or booth style by a part of the conveyor belt. Your wasabi, chopsticks, soy sauce, and even water is right there. Very convenient placement for these high use items. The different dishes of sushi pass by on the conveyor belt. Each item is color coded for price. Just pick out the items you want and enjoy. They total your plates up at the end.
It was a fun sushi experience. Kick back and just watch the unending conveyor of sushi. I loved it. My plates were piling up too. Some great tuna, shrimp, eel sushi amongst the usual sushi rolls, even lightly fried ones. Even some fried beef was in the action. Not a lot of meat at a sushi bar. There were timestamps on each dish so you know when it was made. They do remove ones past their time stamp. It kept a fresh flow going. In the end I had a pretty nice stack of plates. Very easy to keep eating and pay more than you wanted. Keep an eye on it. There are a few locations here in the United States. New Jersey and Washington D.C. to name a few.
The next day we were off to Dublin, Ireland for the second leg of our vacation. We needed to relax and call it an early night. Not sure what early is over there as it is still light out after 9 PM. The pillows on the bed provided no support. Hard to get a good nights sleep. Driving your mate out of bed is also not a good feeling. So you can imagine how the following day traveling night be. That night felt long. As if morning wanted a day off itself. Even though little sleep be had, there was an excitement to head to Ireland.
I could not post every picture I took here. To see more pictures, visit my Flickr album (www.flickr.com/;bprod) or my Facebook page. Both links are on the home page of my website. Having linking issues to put them here.
We did not want to leave London. The time spent there was spent to the fullest. A definite thought to go back and experience more in the future. We packed so much into a short period of time, but still more awaits. Abbey Road, Hyde Park, and so much more. Ireland was an adventure waiting. We looked back as we headed to the airport with a sense of “wow”. Knowing there will be many more of those experiences in the coming week.
Out of Heathrow we flew Aer Lingus over to Dublin. About an hour flight, easy ride. Or at least we thought. Nothing wrong with the plane right at all, that was great and smooth. Just another passenger. A loud American going on about previous vacations. I think that is a story best left for when I go into Ireland. More to come in detail later from different parts of our trip. Until then, see you next time with Dublin, Ireland.
Better wait than never.